Paris
We had six terrific days in Paris – a city we each have special memories of. Matt and I spent our honeymoon there 18 years ago, and then we took the girls for the first time in 2004. We stayed in the 6th Arrondissement in a really nice hotel called Hotel Tourville which is very close to the Eiffel Tower. Every morning Matt and I would walk to Rue Cler for a morning coffee and then scour the street for fresh fruit, breads, yogurt, hot latkes and other goodies for our morning breakfast in our room. We became familiar with the local food merchants and in particular, one lovely elderly French woman who was convinced Matt was a famous actor (not the first time this has happened while traveling). She didn’t speak a word of English and our French is limited, at best, but on the second morning coffee meeting she decided to sit down with us and have a fifteen minute conversation that neither of us understood, but both of us enjoyed immensely! She made quite an impression on us and will remain as another fond memory of Paris.
We kept ourselves busy visiting the Pompidou (the girl’s very favorite museum), Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, the Champs de Mars, The Louvre, Palais Royal and Napoleon’s Tomb and Tuileries Gardens. I have a really good friend, Cathy Franz, and her son, Mike, runs a bike tour company in Paris called Fat Tire Bikes. We took a three hour tour around Paris on one of Mike’s tours and we had so much fun. The girls LOVED it! Mike was funny and well-informed and he kept us interested and entertained. We later took him out to dinner at a really cool restaurant called Le Coup Shou. Mike is a smart, personable, really great guy and we enjoyed our time with him so much.
The weather was a bit chilly and we even had a few brief hail storms, but they always seemed to happen when we were tucked away in some sidewalk café, or in our hotel room. The clouds broke and the sky was burning blue the day we decided to walk through Rodin’s Garden. The gardens are just beautiful and it’s a magical setting to view some of Rodin’s most famous sculptures. On Mike’s recommendation, we decided to visit the Jewish section of Paris, Rue Rosarie. What a hoot. There is clearly a different energy pulsating in this section of town and we just soaked it up. We stopped for incredible falafels (our favorite lunch) and just walked around and did nothing!
Madeline, the other chef in the family, expressed interest in visiting Le Cordon Bleu in Paris while we were there. We walked from our hotel all the way to the cooking school with hopes that we might get to participate in a class or tour, but no such luck. The school was actually closed for spring break. I think Madeline was really taken with the whole idea of the school and it wasn’t a total loss – we bought a few gifts and I took her picture out on the street in front of the Le Cordon Bleu sign. She was pretty jazzed!
Some people think Parisian are snooty and rude and that has never been our experience. I think Parisians are incredibly proud and devoted to their country. There is symmetry to the city that is clearly visible in the way important monuments are lined up with each other, the way the gardens are trimmed and groomed to perfection and even in the way the morning markets are set up so beautifully. There is no doubt that Paris has earned its reputation as “The Most Beautiful City in the World!”
Off to Toledo (that should be a good time)
Lisa, Matt and girls
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Milano!
I love being in Italy. The train to Milan from Bern passed through the Lake Como region, which was a beautiful sight, and we all smiled knowing we were back in Italy again. The cab ride from the train station to the hotel gave me no indication of what was in store for us in this incredible city. We got settled into our somewhat funky, but somewhat cool hotel (we liked it better after we realized our surroundings)! One of the first questions we usually ask when we arrive at a new hotel is “how do we arrange our internet service?” Our very sweet Italian bell boy, Lucca, says “ youa wanta internet? Yes, yes, it’sa free here . . . youa justa givea me youra credit card number, anda thena it’s all free.” And that’s the way it was in Milan – everything free – just after you give them your credit card number!
The first night we just walked around the Duomo and took in the people (the pickpocketers move through the crowds like sharks!), ate dinner at a sidewalk café and, of course, treated ourselves to gelato (it really does taste better in Italy). On Sunday we got really lucky and found four tickets on a tour which would take us to see the DaVinci’s Last Supper (the main reason we came to Milan). It’s not easy to get a ticket, even in the off season, and the best way is to join a tour, so we were really happy. After Madeline’s experience in her History class with Mr. Bream, she was determined to see this work of art. The tour took us to the Milan Castle, a classic Italian castle with gorgeous grounds, to the Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Gothic church which houses the refectory with the Last Supper, the La Scala Opera House, and back through the Duomo to the Piazza. We had an awesome tour guide because she was so passionate about the history and information she was sharing with us. The fifteen minutes we got to spend viewing the Last Supper was extraordinary. Madeline was really taken with being in the presence of this special art work. It’s pretty amazing that so much of the piece was preserved while the rest of the refectory was almost entirely destroyed in World WarII bombings. We found it strange and bizarre that at some point in the refectory’s history, someone decided a door should be put between the dining room and the kitchen (which is behind the wall where the Last Supper is painted). The door was cut into the wall in such a fashion that Jesus’ feet were cut off! Hey, if you need a door, you need a door!
The night of our tour we hung out in our hotel room and had a blast! An earth shattering lightning/thunder/hail storm passed over Milan for about two hours. The noise was deafening and all we could do was stand on our balcony and laugh out loud because it was so wild! The hail chunks were about one inch diameter drops of soft snow that pelted you pretty hard if you were brave enough to stick your hand out from the deck. Then, to our great satisfaction, we turned on the TV and our favorite movie, Moonstruck, was on in Italian! Matt and I walked to the corner to get a pizza to go and that was our perfect night in Milan.
The next day, the skies were blue, the sun was warm and the views from the top of the Milan Cathedral, the largest cathedral in Italy, were just stunning. We took loads of photos from roof, but the images we have from inside this cathedral will have to stay in our hearts and minds forever. There is no possible way to capture on film the architectural grandeur, the inspiring grace and the absolute magnificence of the interior of this cathedral. The moment we walked in the tears welled up inside me. It’s an experience I will never forget. It took 500 years to build the cathedral (but if it’s anything like Malibu, the first 327 years were spent just getting permits!). I can only imagine the generations of families that participated in the building of this cathedral and what their lives must have been like experiencing the progress.
Unfortunately, I had about as much desire to shop in Milan as I did to knock on someone’s door and ask them if I could do their dinner dishes! I’m really enjoying being a consumer by necessity only. We have plenty of time to find fun things along the way and I think I would get the most pleasure out of finding some incredible statue from Thailand, or Cambodia for our new home. But hey – there’s still time to get those Prada loafers in Rome in a few weeks!
See you in Paris!
I love being in Italy. The train to Milan from Bern passed through the Lake Como region, which was a beautiful sight, and we all smiled knowing we were back in Italy again. The cab ride from the train station to the hotel gave me no indication of what was in store for us in this incredible city. We got settled into our somewhat funky, but somewhat cool hotel (we liked it better after we realized our surroundings)! One of the first questions we usually ask when we arrive at a new hotel is “how do we arrange our internet service?” Our very sweet Italian bell boy, Lucca, says “ youa wanta internet? Yes, yes, it’sa free here . . . youa justa givea me youra credit card number, anda thena it’s all free.” And that’s the way it was in Milan – everything free – just after you give them your credit card number!
The first night we just walked around the Duomo and took in the people (the pickpocketers move through the crowds like sharks!), ate dinner at a sidewalk café and, of course, treated ourselves to gelato (it really does taste better in Italy). On Sunday we got really lucky and found four tickets on a tour which would take us to see the DaVinci’s Last Supper (the main reason we came to Milan). It’s not easy to get a ticket, even in the off season, and the best way is to join a tour, so we were really happy. After Madeline’s experience in her History class with Mr. Bream, she was determined to see this work of art. The tour took us to the Milan Castle, a classic Italian castle with gorgeous grounds, to the Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Gothic church which houses the refectory with the Last Supper, the La Scala Opera House, and back through the Duomo to the Piazza. We had an awesome tour guide because she was so passionate about the history and information she was sharing with us. The fifteen minutes we got to spend viewing the Last Supper was extraordinary. Madeline was really taken with being in the presence of this special art work. It’s pretty amazing that so much of the piece was preserved while the rest of the refectory was almost entirely destroyed in World WarII bombings. We found it strange and bizarre that at some point in the refectory’s history, someone decided a door should be put between the dining room and the kitchen (which is behind the wall where the Last Supper is painted). The door was cut into the wall in such a fashion that Jesus’ feet were cut off! Hey, if you need a door, you need a door!
The night of our tour we hung out in our hotel room and had a blast! An earth shattering lightning/thunder/hail storm passed over Milan for about two hours. The noise was deafening and all we could do was stand on our balcony and laugh out loud because it was so wild! The hail chunks were about one inch diameter drops of soft snow that pelted you pretty hard if you were brave enough to stick your hand out from the deck. Then, to our great satisfaction, we turned on the TV and our favorite movie, Moonstruck, was on in Italian! Matt and I walked to the corner to get a pizza to go and that was our perfect night in Milan.
The next day, the skies were blue, the sun was warm and the views from the top of the Milan Cathedral, the largest cathedral in Italy, were just stunning. We took loads of photos from roof, but the images we have from inside this cathedral will have to stay in our hearts and minds forever. There is no possible way to capture on film the architectural grandeur, the inspiring grace and the absolute magnificence of the interior of this cathedral. The moment we walked in the tears welled up inside me. It’s an experience I will never forget. It took 500 years to build the cathedral (but if it’s anything like Malibu, the first 327 years were spent just getting permits!). I can only imagine the generations of families that participated in the building of this cathedral and what their lives must have been like experiencing the progress.
Unfortunately, I had about as much desire to shop in Milan as I did to knock on someone’s door and ask them if I could do their dinner dishes! I’m really enjoying being a consumer by necessity only. We have plenty of time to find fun things along the way and I think I would get the most pleasure out of finding some incredible statue from Thailand, or Cambodia for our new home. But hey – there’s still time to get those Prada loafers in Rome in a few weeks!
See you in Paris!
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Switzerland
On March 13th, Madeline celebrated her 14th birthday by having breakfast in Zurich, lunch in Interlaken and dessert in Bern, Switzerland! Our scenic train ride through Switzerland was really beautiful. Zurich was just a quick overnight – then we took the train through Lucerne, Interlaken and on to Bern for three days. For some reason, I didn’t love Bern. I think my expectations were high and I was a little disappointed. The town itself is pretty, but is has a pulse about it that doesn’t seem to fit with its scenery. For a small town, it has a big energy – even in the off season. I’m ready and excited to move on to Milan.
In Bern we spent some time at the Kunstmuseum, which has a less than thrilling permanent collection, but the special exhibit by Adolf Wolfli was quite fascinating. After reading Wolfli’s bio, I am convinced he is one of those “truly mad” artists. His manic works of art are embedded with strings of text, musical notes and ornamental art. They are extremely detailed and interesting - doodle like. Matt didn’t care for them, but I was really taken with the style and the entire collection as a whole.
The “Bear Cave” of Bern – more like a “Bear Pit!” Two very bored looking bears lying in a round cement pit with rocks and some cut up wood – a little depressing. The famed clock in the center of town was nothing like the grand glockenspiel in Munich (and nobody seemed too interested in its performance). The Christ-catholic Church in Bern is one of those gorgeous gothic churches that I think are completely cool. I cannot pass a church without going inside. I’m just fascinated with the different interpretations of faith and worship throughout time and from place to place. My favorite thing was visiting Einstein’s apartment on Kramgasse. To walk up the same creaky wooden stairs that Einstein walked up while thinking about his Theory of Relativity was definitley a thrill. Einstein lived in Bern from 1902 to 1909. Here’s what he said about Bern…
“I shall mention only one of the scientific experiences which those happy
years in Bern brought: the Theory of Relativity.” Einstein
Jeez – all I did in Bern was eat and sleep!
See you in Milano!
On March 13th, Madeline celebrated her 14th birthday by having breakfast in Zurich, lunch in Interlaken and dessert in Bern, Switzerland! Our scenic train ride through Switzerland was really beautiful. Zurich was just a quick overnight – then we took the train through Lucerne, Interlaken and on to Bern for three days. For some reason, I didn’t love Bern. I think my expectations were high and I was a little disappointed. The town itself is pretty, but is has a pulse about it that doesn’t seem to fit with its scenery. For a small town, it has a big energy – even in the off season. I’m ready and excited to move on to Milan.
In Bern we spent some time at the Kunstmuseum, which has a less than thrilling permanent collection, but the special exhibit by Adolf Wolfli was quite fascinating. After reading Wolfli’s bio, I am convinced he is one of those “truly mad” artists. His manic works of art are embedded with strings of text, musical notes and ornamental art. They are extremely detailed and interesting - doodle like. Matt didn’t care for them, but I was really taken with the style and the entire collection as a whole.
The “Bear Cave” of Bern – more like a “Bear Pit!” Two very bored looking bears lying in a round cement pit with rocks and some cut up wood – a little depressing. The famed clock in the center of town was nothing like the grand glockenspiel in Munich (and nobody seemed too interested in its performance). The Christ-catholic Church in Bern is one of those gorgeous gothic churches that I think are completely cool. I cannot pass a church without going inside. I’m just fascinated with the different interpretations of faith and worship throughout time and from place to place. My favorite thing was visiting Einstein’s apartment on Kramgasse. To walk up the same creaky wooden stairs that Einstein walked up while thinking about his Theory of Relativity was definitley a thrill. Einstein lived in Bern from 1902 to 1909. Here’s what he said about Bern…
“I shall mention only one of the scientific experiences which those happy
years in Bern brought: the Theory of Relativity.” Einstein
Jeez – all I did in Bern was eat and sleep!
See you in Milano!
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Salzburg!
Wow! What a magical experience this has been. This city is gorgeous, clean, quiet, filled with charm and history and begging for people to walk all over it! We didn’t take public transportation once (except for the tour out to the Lakes Region) and we loved every minute. Today we walked to the top of Festungsburg Fort (right in the middle of the city) and the views were stunning. Salzburg is nestled in a valley surrounded by snow covered mountains and green expanses of land. It really does look like the Sound of Music! Yesterday we took a bus out to the Lakes Region (about 20 miles out of Salzburg) and we were really happy we did. We saw part of Austria we probably would not have seen, had we not done the tour. Fun fact – Red Bull was invented in this tiny town about 15 miles outside Salzburg and when you pass through you see the Red Bull campus, which is filled with ultra-hip, very modern glass buildings surrounded by water and it’s quite impressive!
We stayed in a very cool apartment and it really felt like home. The girls agreed that today was one of their favorite days so far and that they will return to Salzburg one day! (which is exactly why we’re doing this!) Off to Zurich for a quick stay, then to Bern, Switzerland!
Peace
Wow! What a magical experience this has been. This city is gorgeous, clean, quiet, filled with charm and history and begging for people to walk all over it! We didn’t take public transportation once (except for the tour out to the Lakes Region) and we loved every minute. Today we walked to the top of Festungsburg Fort (right in the middle of the city) and the views were stunning. Salzburg is nestled in a valley surrounded by snow covered mountains and green expanses of land. It really does look like the Sound of Music! Yesterday we took a bus out to the Lakes Region (about 20 miles out of Salzburg) and we were really happy we did. We saw part of Austria we probably would not have seen, had we not done the tour. Fun fact – Red Bull was invented in this tiny town about 15 miles outside Salzburg and when you pass through you see the Red Bull campus, which is filled with ultra-hip, very modern glass buildings surrounded by water and it’s quite impressive!
We stayed in a very cool apartment and it really felt like home. The girls agreed that today was one of their favorite days so far and that they will return to Salzburg one day! (which is exactly why we’re doing this!) Off to Zurich for a quick stay, then to Bern, Switzerland!
Peace
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Picasa Link to Travel Photos
I finally uploaded our travel photos to the web through Picasa, so if you're interested, there is a link on the upper right hand side of the blog site. Have fun!
Munich
We took the train from Munich to Fussen today to visit Neuschwanstein Castle, one of Europe’s grandest “fairy tale” castles. It was built from 1869 to 1886, but even then, it was only partially completed. The romantic, and eccentric, King Ludwig II had the castle built as a tribute to Richard Wagner, but Ludwig was declared insane by the state and was ordered to leave the castle. Before he departed he was found mysteriously floating in the lake below the castle – with his psychiatrist. The castle was only about 1/3 completed and within six weeks after Ludwig’s death, tours of the castle opened to the public. Hmmmm…. a bit fishy. Anyway, we had a great day and we really enjoyed the snowy, dramatic mountains the surround this majestic castle.
Yesterday we went back into Old Town to see the Glockenspiel chime and dance at 11:00am. It was so cute to watch all the little kids with their heads up, glued to the clock tower and smiling with delight. Alex and I got some great photos. We visited the Toy Museum, then walked around the Farmer’s Market and bought fresh bread, hummus and cheese and ate the most delicious bowls of soup ever. Meandering through the food markets of Europe is just a blast.
The train time we have together as we travel city to city has been really great family time. We, of course, bought Euro rail passes and we don’t have to fly again until we leave Athens for Turkey in mid-April. We usually play cards, catch up on schoolwork and read as a family. One of Alex’s literature novels that we chose was Elie Wiesel’s “Night.” We decided to read this novel as a family (I read aloud and everyone listens) because we wanted to experience the story as a family as we were traveling through Europe, and particularly, Auschwitz. Wiesel is a survivor of Auschwitz/Birkenau/Buna and Buchenwald and his story is heart wrenching, honest and inspiring. As we left the Auschwitz memorial the other day, there were six different building that honored Jewish people by country and we only had time to tour one of them. I thought it was poignant that we happened to choose the building where Elie Wiesel was honored. As we stepped out of the building and walked the street back to the parking lot, we were painfully aware that Elie had walked on those very streets before us. If you have not read this book, we highly recommend it. Wiesel was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1986 and the story he has to tell is painful, but should be shared.
See you in Salzburg!
The Toledo Family
We took the train from Munich to Fussen today to visit Neuschwanstein Castle, one of Europe’s grandest “fairy tale” castles. It was built from 1869 to 1886, but even then, it was only partially completed. The romantic, and eccentric, King Ludwig II had the castle built as a tribute to Richard Wagner, but Ludwig was declared insane by the state and was ordered to leave the castle. Before he departed he was found mysteriously floating in the lake below the castle – with his psychiatrist. The castle was only about 1/3 completed and within six weeks after Ludwig’s death, tours of the castle opened to the public. Hmmmm…. a bit fishy. Anyway, we had a great day and we really enjoyed the snowy, dramatic mountains the surround this majestic castle.
Yesterday we went back into Old Town to see the Glockenspiel chime and dance at 11:00am. It was so cute to watch all the little kids with their heads up, glued to the clock tower and smiling with delight. Alex and I got some great photos. We visited the Toy Museum, then walked around the Farmer’s Market and bought fresh bread, hummus and cheese and ate the most delicious bowls of soup ever. Meandering through the food markets of Europe is just a blast.
The train time we have together as we travel city to city has been really great family time. We, of course, bought Euro rail passes and we don’t have to fly again until we leave Athens for Turkey in mid-April. We usually play cards, catch up on schoolwork and read as a family. One of Alex’s literature novels that we chose was Elie Wiesel’s “Night.” We decided to read this novel as a family (I read aloud and everyone listens) because we wanted to experience the story as a family as we were traveling through Europe, and particularly, Auschwitz. Wiesel is a survivor of Auschwitz/Birkenau/Buna and Buchenwald and his story is heart wrenching, honest and inspiring. As we left the Auschwitz memorial the other day, there were six different building that honored Jewish people by country and we only had time to tour one of them. I thought it was poignant that we happened to choose the building where Elie Wiesel was honored. As we stepped out of the building and walked the street back to the parking lot, we were painfully aware that Elie had walked on those very streets before us. If you have not read this book, we highly recommend it. Wiesel was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1986 and the story he has to tell is painful, but should be shared.
See you in Salzburg!
The Toledo Family
Friday, March 7, 2008
New Photos
I forgot to post some photos from Berlin, and there were a few from Amsterdam as well, so now they are below. I couldn't put them in chronological order on the blog (some weird formatting thing), so I just posted them anyway. Oh well. If it's Tuesday, it must be Belgium!
Lisa
Lisa
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
Last Day in Prague
We woke this morning to sunny, blue skies and a light dusting of snow all over the city of Prague. The air was cold and crisp and the city looked like it was sprinkled in powder sugar overnight. By the time our tram stopped at Prague Castle, the skies were a menacing grey and the snowflakes began to fall. However, within the next hour, the clouds had passed and the skies were a perfect blue again! (see photos of St. Vitus Cathedral). The weather changed like this at least twice more in the following couple of hours. It was really a treat.
St. Vitus Cathedral is one of the most impressive cathedrals in all of Europe. The stained glass windows are exquisite and the sun was shining through long enough to reveal their full glory. The outside of the cathedral, with its gothic design and spires, is just as inspiring as the inside. We spent some time learning about the history of the castle and wandering around the different structures, and then headed back to Old Town Square. We wanted to visit the Bric-A-Brac antique shop that we had been in the day before to buy one of their Czech marionettes from the 1930’s. We instead bought Alex a Russian camera called a Lomo, which was made in the 1960’s. She is thrilled. We went online and discovered that the Russian Lomo is the one to have! Apparently professional photographers have developed ways to digitally recreate the effects of the Russian Lomo, but there’s nothing like the original. She can’t wait to buy some film and give it a try.
I would live in this wonderful city of Prague any day. Every time you turn a corner, there is a new visual treasure just waiting to be gawked at. I felt like such a tourist here, because I just couldn't put my camera away. I was really happy with my photos. I posted a few below, but it was taking about three minutes to upload each one, so I only posted a few. The rest of them will be saved for the three day slide show we’re going to give you when we get home.
See you in Munich!
Lisa, Matt, Alex and Madeline
We woke this morning to sunny, blue skies and a light dusting of snow all over the city of Prague. The air was cold and crisp and the city looked like it was sprinkled in powder sugar overnight. By the time our tram stopped at Prague Castle, the skies were a menacing grey and the snowflakes began to fall. However, within the next hour, the clouds had passed and the skies were a perfect blue again! (see photos of St. Vitus Cathedral). The weather changed like this at least twice more in the following couple of hours. It was really a treat.
St. Vitus Cathedral is one of the most impressive cathedrals in all of Europe. The stained glass windows are exquisite and the sun was shining through long enough to reveal their full glory. The outside of the cathedral, with its gothic design and spires, is just as inspiring as the inside. We spent some time learning about the history of the castle and wandering around the different structures, and then headed back to Old Town Square. We wanted to visit the Bric-A-Brac antique shop that we had been in the day before to buy one of their Czech marionettes from the 1930’s. We instead bought Alex a Russian camera called a Lomo, which was made in the 1960’s. She is thrilled. We went online and discovered that the Russian Lomo is the one to have! Apparently professional photographers have developed ways to digitally recreate the effects of the Russian Lomo, but there’s nothing like the original. She can’t wait to buy some film and give it a try.
I would live in this wonderful city of Prague any day. Every time you turn a corner, there is a new visual treasure just waiting to be gawked at. I felt like such a tourist here, because I just couldn't put my camera away. I was really happy with my photos. I posted a few below, but it was taking about three minutes to upload each one, so I only posted a few. The rest of them will be saved for the three day slide show we’re going to give you when we get home.
See you in Munich!
Lisa, Matt, Alex and Madeline
Prague – March 5th
Sorry for this rambling blog – it really is meant for those of you who are truly hanging on our every word (hi, Mom – I love you)!
We are now almost one month into our travels and last night at dinner, as a family, we were reflecting on some of the experiences we’ve had along the way. We all agreed that we laughed the most in Quebec City – we had silly fun at the Winterfest Park and Madeline kept us in stitches with her good humor and excellent timing. We talked about some of our favorite meals and realized that the” best meals” we’ve had are not necessarily the “finest meals” we’ve had. The bread/salami/cheese sandwiches, apples, animal cookies and cheap little bottles of red wine that we had on the night train to Krakow was absolutely our favorite meal so far. We were famished, tired and a little giddy, and by the time we got on the train, in our little sleeper car, we were just happy to be there – together. Our fondue meal in Quebec City was memorable because it was a bit of an inside joke as a family. When we were in Paris a few years ago, we walked up and down several streets on the Left Bank and tried to convince a restaurant to serve us one serving of fondue that we could all share. We weren’t really that hungry, but we really wanted fondue! We walked into at least five, completely empty, restaurants and every one of them told us they would only serve us fondue if we ordered four! After a while it became comical and we gave up – hence the greatly appreciated fondue dinner we had in Quebec City. In Amsterdam we were having a late lunch at a fabulous little find, Café Sevini, and we asked the girls what their favorite and least favorite aspect of the trip was so far. Alex said “My favorite thing is getting to spend every day with you guys – especially you, Dad.” (honestly!) and her least favorite thing was “missing Tatiana.” Madeline said “My favorite thing is just getting to a new city and walking around and looking at all the new things and people and taking it all in,” and her least favorite was “having to share a bathroom with her sister,” (which we think is funny, since she shares one with her at home – although they do each have their own sinks!) Our favorite moments: toboggan ride in Quebec City; falafels in Amsterdam; gourmet food section in KaDeWe, Berlin; Picasso Museum in Berlin; Daddy tripping over a little black dog in Berlin; antique Czech puppets in Bric a Brac in Prague; Beaver Tails in Quebec City; trying to buy our train ticket to Auschwitz with Euros, when they only take Polish dollars – and we were already on the train; the cute Golden Retriever in Berlin; Guinness and fish-and-chips in Ireland; Sheridan’s Cheese Monger in Dublin; the Butterfly Garden at Amsterdam Zoo; Spamalot; tube rides in London; chocolate shops in Brussels and clean clothes on laundry days.
We’ve been incredibly lucky with the places we’ve stayed so far, except for one. Matt has been using the New York Times Travel Section as a basic guide and the recommendations have been right on. Of course Loews Quebec City was just crazy nice, thanks to John Thacker. We adored our hotel in Kilarney, the Kilarney Royal – so cozy, friendly and beautiful. The Thistle in London was a big hotel, but our family room was huge and nice and in the Marble Arch area of London which is a great place to be. Brussels was the only hotel that was less then perfect. It was big, but really sparse and just a little funky – not dirty, just a weird vibe. Luckily we were only there for one night. Amsterdam was another great surprise. The A-Train Hotel was right across from the main train station and it was small, incredibly charming and with a great attention to décor and detail (old train theme). We loved our stay there and would absolutely go back. In Berlin we had two nice, large rooms at Hotel Arco which was situated in the west side of Berlin in an older neighborhood with lots of character. Now we’re in Prague and we have an apartment on a quiet street in the Flathotel Orion. It’s nice to have so much space to spread out and a kitchen to make breakfast and snacks. Again, all recommendations from NY Times. No complaints.
As we travel on, each city seems more beautiful then the last, with one exception. The scenery on our train ride through Poland down to Krakow and then out to Auschwitz was oppressive and depressing. I realize its winter and generally the scenery along the train tracks in any city may not be its finest, but it just seemed sad. I’m sure there are incredible places to visit in Poland; it just didn’t happen for us on this trip. I have to say, after the day we spent yesterday in Prague – I am convinced that this city will be my favorite. Aesthetically, Prague takes the top prize. We are all captivated with its magnificence. We’re so happy we have time to take it all in.
More Later…
Sorry for this rambling blog – it really is meant for those of you who are truly hanging on our every word (hi, Mom – I love you)!
We are now almost one month into our travels and last night at dinner, as a family, we were reflecting on some of the experiences we’ve had along the way. We all agreed that we laughed the most in Quebec City – we had silly fun at the Winterfest Park and Madeline kept us in stitches with her good humor and excellent timing. We talked about some of our favorite meals and realized that the” best meals” we’ve had are not necessarily the “finest meals” we’ve had. The bread/salami/cheese sandwiches, apples, animal cookies and cheap little bottles of red wine that we had on the night train to Krakow was absolutely our favorite meal so far. We were famished, tired and a little giddy, and by the time we got on the train, in our little sleeper car, we were just happy to be there – together. Our fondue meal in Quebec City was memorable because it was a bit of an inside joke as a family. When we were in Paris a few years ago, we walked up and down several streets on the Left Bank and tried to convince a restaurant to serve us one serving of fondue that we could all share. We weren’t really that hungry, but we really wanted fondue! We walked into at least five, completely empty, restaurants and every one of them told us they would only serve us fondue if we ordered four! After a while it became comical and we gave up – hence the greatly appreciated fondue dinner we had in Quebec City. In Amsterdam we were having a late lunch at a fabulous little find, Café Sevini, and we asked the girls what their favorite and least favorite aspect of the trip was so far. Alex said “My favorite thing is getting to spend every day with you guys – especially you, Dad.” (honestly!) and her least favorite thing was “missing Tatiana.” Madeline said “My favorite thing is just getting to a new city and walking around and looking at all the new things and people and taking it all in,” and her least favorite was “having to share a bathroom with her sister,” (which we think is funny, since she shares one with her at home – although they do each have their own sinks!) Our favorite moments: toboggan ride in Quebec City; falafels in Amsterdam; gourmet food section in KaDeWe, Berlin; Picasso Museum in Berlin; Daddy tripping over a little black dog in Berlin; antique Czech puppets in Bric a Brac in Prague; Beaver Tails in Quebec City; trying to buy our train ticket to Auschwitz with Euros, when they only take Polish dollars – and we were already on the train; the cute Golden Retriever in Berlin; Guinness and fish-and-chips in Ireland; Sheridan’s Cheese Monger in Dublin; the Butterfly Garden at Amsterdam Zoo; Spamalot; tube rides in London; chocolate shops in Brussels and clean clothes on laundry days.
We’ve been incredibly lucky with the places we’ve stayed so far, except for one. Matt has been using the New York Times Travel Section as a basic guide and the recommendations have been right on. Of course Loews Quebec City was just crazy nice, thanks to John Thacker. We adored our hotel in Kilarney, the Kilarney Royal – so cozy, friendly and beautiful. The Thistle in London was a big hotel, but our family room was huge and nice and in the Marble Arch area of London which is a great place to be. Brussels was the only hotel that was less then perfect. It was big, but really sparse and just a little funky – not dirty, just a weird vibe. Luckily we were only there for one night. Amsterdam was another great surprise. The A-Train Hotel was right across from the main train station and it was small, incredibly charming and with a great attention to décor and detail (old train theme). We loved our stay there and would absolutely go back. In Berlin we had two nice, large rooms at Hotel Arco which was situated in the west side of Berlin in an older neighborhood with lots of character. Now we’re in Prague and we have an apartment on a quiet street in the Flathotel Orion. It’s nice to have so much space to spread out and a kitchen to make breakfast and snacks. Again, all recommendations from NY Times. No complaints.
As we travel on, each city seems more beautiful then the last, with one exception. The scenery on our train ride through Poland down to Krakow and then out to Auschwitz was oppressive and depressing. I realize its winter and generally the scenery along the train tracks in any city may not be its finest, but it just seemed sad. I’m sure there are incredible places to visit in Poland; it just didn’t happen for us on this trip. I have to say, after the day we spent yesterday in Prague – I am convinced that this city will be my favorite. Aesthetically, Prague takes the top prize. We are all captivated with its magnificence. We’re so happy we have time to take it all in.
More Later…
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Auschwitz - March 2nd
It’s was an appropriately wet, cold, dreary day at Auschwitz and from the moment we stepped onto the site it was hard to imagine that the sun and warm ever make an appearance there. We are truly speechless. There are no words, there is no description and there’s no explanation. At the end of the day, the only way to comprehend is to open our hearts and minds, honor each and every spirit, and embrace tolerance as if it were part of our genetic make-up and not simply a conscious decision. We are eternally moved, we are grateful for our human rights and freedom and we are blessed to have family and friends that we love, laugh with and get to wrap our arms around at the end of the day.
It’s was an appropriately wet, cold, dreary day at Auschwitz and from the moment we stepped onto the site it was hard to imagine that the sun and warm ever make an appearance there. We are truly speechless. There are no words, there is no description and there’s no explanation. At the end of the day, the only way to comprehend is to open our hearts and minds, honor each and every spirit, and embrace tolerance as if it were part of our genetic make-up and not simply a conscious decision. We are eternally moved, we are grateful for our human rights and freedom and we are blessed to have family and friends that we love, laugh with and get to wrap our arms around at the end of the day.
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