Crazy. I can’t believe we’ve come this far. I’m sitting in our hotel room in Kyoto with a few hours to kill before the train takes us back to Tokyo and we begin our journey home. Every step we take from this moment on, is a step towards Malibu. We’re done sightseeing, we’ve “seen the people” for the last time, and we’re not wondering what the next country holds in store because we already know. We’ve each arrived at a peaceful place feeling accomplished, proud and incredibly fulfilled with our traveling adventure. Our family experience has grown beyond belief, our bonds are strong and our memories from this trip will connect in ways we can appreciate and enjoy for the rest of our lives. And now, we’re eager and excited to return home and enjoy the amazing lives we live in California.
Japan has been a really special place to visit and a great way to end our trip. We’ve been so fortunate, along the way, to have met so many beautiful, warm and kind people, but Japan takes the prize. The Japanese people have a grace, subtlety and warmth about them that is particularly delightful. Sure, we saw Buddhist Temples, Shintu Temples, Zen Gardens, Nijo Castle, and even Mt. Fuji, but none of these monuments compared to the fun we had communicating and interacting with the Japanese people.
We were reading a travel magazine and we saw an article about a Camera Museum in Tokyo that sounded really cool. We weren't even sure where it was so we had a taxi drop us off in the general vicinity and we walked around this business district for about an hour until we finally found it tucked away in a nice office building. The museum was filled with hundreds of cameras, covering the entire range of photographic technology and development from every period. The museum was very well done and even had some hands-on cameras to goof around with. We literelly had to drag Alex out of the museum when it was time to move along. She was in "photographers heaven" and is very clear what her next camera addition will be!
When we arrived in Kyoto we were starving so we chose a small, local Japanese restaurant next to our hotel to satiate ourselves. When we sat down we noticed a group of six men sharing lunch and Asahi’s and having a great time. Just after we ordered, one of the men, Sato, approached our table and offered to buy us beers. He then proceeded to teach us the Japanese way to pour beer when it is a gift, how to toast, and when to refill your glass – all in Japanese! An hour later, we were still drinking beers with Sato and his friend, Nomi. It was hysterical and we all laughed so hard we thought we’d pee our pants! With a few English words in his vocabulary, Sato told us he was 23, he didn’t like Bush, but liked Obama (same story for the rest of the planet), and that he loved to watch “Full House” on Japanese television. We all agreed that our Japanese lunch with Sato and Nomi was the best meal experiences of the entire trip!
We learned that 85% of the Japanese are Shintu, a religion that believes in literally thousands of Gods. However, 75% of Japanese consider themselves to be Buddhist as well, so there is a really nice connection between the two religions. We were all familiar with the Japanese animation craze, but we had no idea how huge it was here in Japan. The bookshops are filled with thousands of animation books which range anywhere from Hello Kitty to some pretty raunchy triple XXX versions! Another craze we noticed was cell phone charms! It’s pretty cute to sit on the subway next to an elegantly dressed business man who has with no less then five plastic cell phone charms hanging off his cell phone. Japan was fun. That’s the best way to put it. Matt and I hope to come back one day to do some biking because there is so much natural beauty here to be explored.
The next time I blog will be from my home computer in my little office with the apple green Caesarstone countertops. I can’t wait. This has been incredibly rewarding, but we’re all ready to go home and see Scout, family and friends.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Shanghai and Beijing
It’s hard to believe that after all these months, my blogging days are coming to an end! I’m writing this blog from the Bullet Train (so cool) enroute from Tokyo to Kyoto and now we only have four more days left of our adventure. There’s no doubt that after we left Bali everyone felt anxious about returning home to friends, family, surfing, our home and Scout. With mixed emotions, loads of great memories and an enhanced vision of the world, we humbly look forward to setting foot on American soil.
Shanghai was a quick stop, but one of the most spectacular visions of a city we’ve seen so far. We were camped out on the 73rd floor of the Grand Hyatt, with incredible views of the city and the Bund River. The architecture of Shanghai is spectacular – each building more impressive then the one next to it. Sadly, the city is smothered in smog most of the time, but we were lucky to have witnessed a few nasty thunderstorms that cleared the air and increased our view of the entire metro area of Shanghai. We walked through Yu Yuan Gardens, ate at the famous Nanxian Bun Shop, sipped tea and made friends in a local tea shop, had a fabulous dinner at M on the Bund and enjoyed the view from our hotel room.
There is no doubt that Beijing is “on it’s best behavior” with the pending spectacle of the Olympics in a few weeks. The city is so clean and polished and the Olympic Village is a vision. The two most impressive buildings are the Water Cube, home to the water sports, and the Birds Nest, which will host the opening ceremonies and track and field events. Another impressive building that popped up for the Olympics is an all white building designed in the shape of the Olympic torch. You can really feel the excitement and pride the Chinese people have for hosting this awesome event.
We were lucky to have connected with some friends in Beijing that Matt has met through business. Jamie Lee, who heads the Beijing division of LA Inc., took great care of us in China and we had a really fun day at the Pearl Market with her. We took advantage of her ability to speak Mandarin, as well as her excellent negotiating skills! Matt’s friend, Steve Harper, who owns New Horizons Realty, took us out for a traditional Peking duck dinner and a night ride around the city.
I had been looking forward to walking on the Great Wall of China for some time and I was not disappointed. There are several places for tourists to experience the wall and we were taken to the Badaling section, which was beautiful. The Great Wall Museum at the entrance to the wall gave a fascinating overall history of why, when and where the wall was built and the role it played in Chinese history. Matt and I could have walked for hours, but the girls were a little tired, so we headed back. On the way down, a Chinese teenage girl grabbed Alex’s hand and welcomed her to Beijing, which was so sweet. She then asked if she could take a photo with Alex and she agreed. Then she wanted to take a photo of our family and before we knew it, we had started a feeding frenzy of photo taking of the novel American family on the Great Wall! It was very cute and I’m still not sure if they thought we were famous, or if they just thought we were funny Americans! (probably the latter, although Matt has been photographed and video tapped on this trip more then Brad Pitt and Tom Cruise put together!)
Matt and Alex visited the Forbidden City (unfortunately Madeline and I were not feeling well) and Alex loved it. Matt had been before so he got to show her around. One evening at sunset, Matt and I walked around the lake in an area called HoHai, which is completely charming – filled with cafes and little shops and locals strolling the little streets. Oh, we also headed over to the Beijing Zoo to visit the panda bears that had been rescued from the earthquake zone. They were quite the spectacle, so it was a little crowded, but we snapped a few good photos and they are so cute! It’s so incredibly difficult to visit a zoo after our experience with the animals in the Masai Mara, Lake Manyara and the Ngorongoro Crater. The girls will never be the same and we all have a greater appreciation for the wild, untamed circle of life. Zoo’s can be sanctuaries which benefit some animals, but Beijing didn’t feel that way and it was a little depressing, so we had to leave.
The Chinese people are so wonderful. Communication is a challenge, but they are always so generous and willing to help. It’s easy to be here in China. I had always envisioned traveling in this part of the world to be a bit of a chore, but it’s just not so. The taxi drivers are practicing their English, “dog” has been removed from all menus, and the city factory production has been reduced to 40% to clean up the air in time for the Olympics! Only in China!
See you in Japan for the last leg.
Shanghai was a quick stop, but one of the most spectacular visions of a city we’ve seen so far. We were camped out on the 73rd floor of the Grand Hyatt, with incredible views of the city and the Bund River. The architecture of Shanghai is spectacular – each building more impressive then the one next to it. Sadly, the city is smothered in smog most of the time, but we were lucky to have witnessed a few nasty thunderstorms that cleared the air and increased our view of the entire metro area of Shanghai. We walked through Yu Yuan Gardens, ate at the famous Nanxian Bun Shop, sipped tea and made friends in a local tea shop, had a fabulous dinner at M on the Bund and enjoyed the view from our hotel room.
There is no doubt that Beijing is “on it’s best behavior” with the pending spectacle of the Olympics in a few weeks. The city is so clean and polished and the Olympic Village is a vision. The two most impressive buildings are the Water Cube, home to the water sports, and the Birds Nest, which will host the opening ceremonies and track and field events. Another impressive building that popped up for the Olympics is an all white building designed in the shape of the Olympic torch. You can really feel the excitement and pride the Chinese people have for hosting this awesome event.
We were lucky to have connected with some friends in Beijing that Matt has met through business. Jamie Lee, who heads the Beijing division of LA Inc., took great care of us in China and we had a really fun day at the Pearl Market with her. We took advantage of her ability to speak Mandarin, as well as her excellent negotiating skills! Matt’s friend, Steve Harper, who owns New Horizons Realty, took us out for a traditional Peking duck dinner and a night ride around the city.
I had been looking forward to walking on the Great Wall of China for some time and I was not disappointed. There are several places for tourists to experience the wall and we were taken to the Badaling section, which was beautiful. The Great Wall Museum at the entrance to the wall gave a fascinating overall history of why, when and where the wall was built and the role it played in Chinese history. Matt and I could have walked for hours, but the girls were a little tired, so we headed back. On the way down, a Chinese teenage girl grabbed Alex’s hand and welcomed her to Beijing, which was so sweet. She then asked if she could take a photo with Alex and she agreed. Then she wanted to take a photo of our family and before we knew it, we had started a feeding frenzy of photo taking of the novel American family on the Great Wall! It was very cute and I’m still not sure if they thought we were famous, or if they just thought we were funny Americans! (probably the latter, although Matt has been photographed and video tapped on this trip more then Brad Pitt and Tom Cruise put together!)
Matt and Alex visited the Forbidden City (unfortunately Madeline and I were not feeling well) and Alex loved it. Matt had been before so he got to show her around. One evening at sunset, Matt and I walked around the lake in an area called HoHai, which is completely charming – filled with cafes and little shops and locals strolling the little streets. Oh, we also headed over to the Beijing Zoo to visit the panda bears that had been rescued from the earthquake zone. They were quite the spectacle, so it was a little crowded, but we snapped a few good photos and they are so cute! It’s so incredibly difficult to visit a zoo after our experience with the animals in the Masai Mara, Lake Manyara and the Ngorongoro Crater. The girls will never be the same and we all have a greater appreciation for the wild, untamed circle of life. Zoo’s can be sanctuaries which benefit some animals, but Beijing didn’t feel that way and it was a little depressing, so we had to leave.
The Chinese people are so wonderful. Communication is a challenge, but they are always so generous and willing to help. It’s easy to be here in China. I had always envisioned traveling in this part of the world to be a bit of a chore, but it’s just not so. The taxi drivers are practicing their English, “dog” has been removed from all menus, and the city factory production has been reduced to 40% to clean up the air in time for the Olympics! Only in China!
See you in Japan for the last leg.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Reading on the Road
One of the luxuries of traveling, for me anyway, has been the time it has afforded me to read. I’m always reading at home, but it’s been so nice to have blocks of time while moving from one place to the next, to really dig into a book. I’ve been trying to read books that are somewhat relevant to where we travel and others that are just pure entertainment. The best part of reading is sharing the books I’ve read with others so here are some of them worth mentioning:
Tales From a Female Nomad – by Rita Goldman Gelman – Madeline bought me this book for my birthday last year. The book is about a divorced woman in search of her self through traveling. I particularly enjoyed the chapters where she travels to Palenque, Mexico (one of our favorite places), Thailand, and Bali. Gelman immerses herself in the cultures of far-away places through cooking, local rituals, and by living with the native people. Her experience in Bali is particularly interesting.
Night – by Eli Weisel. We read this book as a family during our travels to Auschwitz. Weisel’s experience as a survivor of the Holocaust is poignant, heartbreaking and unforgettable. A must read.
The Diving Bell and The Butterfly – by Jean-Dominique Bauby. A beautifully poetic journey into the mind of a gifted man trapped inside his useless body.
Of Mice and Men – by John Steinbeck. Say no more – we all read this book, some of us for a second go around.
To Kill A Mockingbird – by Harper Lee. Scout and Atticus are our hero’s. The girls and I read this book and we loved it. Another must read. I can't believe it took me this long to read this book.
When Broken Glass Floats – by Chanrithy Han. The story of a survivor of the Cambodian genocide by the Khmer Rouge led by Pol Pot in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. Incredibly heartbreaking and unbelievable. Well written and informative.
The Snow Leopard – by Peter Matthiesson. A soul-searching journey through the Himalayas of Nepal and Tibet. Beautiful.
The Girl In The Picture – by Denise Chong. We’ve all seen the photo of the little girl running from the napalm attack in Viet Nam. This is her story and it’s an astonishing look into her survival, the Viet Nam war, communism and her struggle for freedom.
Dante’s Inferno – by Dante. I got caught up in reading this again. It’s actually quite humorous and this time I spent more time reading the footnotes to understand the Italian politics and influential figures during Dante’s lifetime which gave me a better understanding of him as an exiled poet. Fascinating.
Water For Elephants – by Sara Gruen. I put off reading this book because I had no interest in a story about the circus, but I devoured it! The book was passed along to me from our friend Larry in Monterroso and I, in turn, passed it along to Sarah on the ferry to Patras. Loved this book.
The Bastard of Istanbul – by Elif Shafek. This book is a simplistic look into the story of a young woman living in America who is struggling with her Armenian and Turkish roots. The reality of the Turkish genocide of the Armenians is explored through this fictional story. I didn't love this book, but I'm glad I read it.
Frankenstein – by Mary Shelley. I love Shelly’s writing style. Man vs. God, Man vs. Nature Man vs. Himself – it’s all there.
Tortilla Curtain - by T.C. Boyle. This is my third Boyle novel and he is one of my all time favorite authors. He has an incredible way of intertwining his characters lives in unexpected ways. I loved this book and more so because it was set in Topanga Canyon and explores the struggles of Mexican immigrants in search of the “American dream.”
In Spite of The Gods – by Edward Luce. A very in-depth look into modern day India. Luce was a writer for The Financial Times and spent many years living in India. He was privy to interviews with politicians, humanitarians, religious leaders, business people and government employees and his research is a fascinating look into the underbelly of corruption, the reality of India’s caste system, the business climate and India’s emerging status as a global power. One of my favorite quotes about India comes from this book when Luce says “nothing is ever as bad, or as good, as you think it is in India.”
Enjoy!
Tales From a Female Nomad – by Rita Goldman Gelman – Madeline bought me this book for my birthday last year. The book is about a divorced woman in search of her self through traveling. I particularly enjoyed the chapters where she travels to Palenque, Mexico (one of our favorite places), Thailand, and Bali. Gelman immerses herself in the cultures of far-away places through cooking, local rituals, and by living with the native people. Her experience in Bali is particularly interesting.
Night – by Eli Weisel. We read this book as a family during our travels to Auschwitz. Weisel’s experience as a survivor of the Holocaust is poignant, heartbreaking and unforgettable. A must read.
The Diving Bell and The Butterfly – by Jean-Dominique Bauby. A beautifully poetic journey into the mind of a gifted man trapped inside his useless body.
Of Mice and Men – by John Steinbeck. Say no more – we all read this book, some of us for a second go around.
To Kill A Mockingbird – by Harper Lee. Scout and Atticus are our hero’s. The girls and I read this book and we loved it. Another must read. I can't believe it took me this long to read this book.
When Broken Glass Floats – by Chanrithy Han. The story of a survivor of the Cambodian genocide by the Khmer Rouge led by Pol Pot in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. Incredibly heartbreaking and unbelievable. Well written and informative.
The Snow Leopard – by Peter Matthiesson. A soul-searching journey through the Himalayas of Nepal and Tibet. Beautiful.
The Girl In The Picture – by Denise Chong. We’ve all seen the photo of the little girl running from the napalm attack in Viet Nam. This is her story and it’s an astonishing look into her survival, the Viet Nam war, communism and her struggle for freedom.
Dante’s Inferno – by Dante. I got caught up in reading this again. It’s actually quite humorous and this time I spent more time reading the footnotes to understand the Italian politics and influential figures during Dante’s lifetime which gave me a better understanding of him as an exiled poet. Fascinating.
Water For Elephants – by Sara Gruen. I put off reading this book because I had no interest in a story about the circus, but I devoured it! The book was passed along to me from our friend Larry in Monterroso and I, in turn, passed it along to Sarah on the ferry to Patras. Loved this book.
The Bastard of Istanbul – by Elif Shafek. This book is a simplistic look into the story of a young woman living in America who is struggling with her Armenian and Turkish roots. The reality of the Turkish genocide of the Armenians is explored through this fictional story. I didn't love this book, but I'm glad I read it.
Frankenstein – by Mary Shelley. I love Shelly’s writing style. Man vs. God, Man vs. Nature Man vs. Himself – it’s all there.
Tortilla Curtain - by T.C. Boyle. This is my third Boyle novel and he is one of my all time favorite authors. He has an incredible way of intertwining his characters lives in unexpected ways. I loved this book and more so because it was set in Topanga Canyon and explores the struggles of Mexican immigrants in search of the “American dream.”
In Spite of The Gods – by Edward Luce. A very in-depth look into modern day India. Luce was a writer for The Financial Times and spent many years living in India. He was privy to interviews with politicians, humanitarians, religious leaders, business people and government employees and his research is a fascinating look into the underbelly of corruption, the reality of India’s caste system, the business climate and India’s emerging status as a global power. One of my favorite quotes about India comes from this book when Luce says “nothing is ever as bad, or as good, as you think it is in India.”
Enjoy!
Friday, July 11, 2008
Hong Kong
The best word to describe Hong Kong is “impeccable.” We loved visiting this towering city of lights, architecture, culture and beauty. We stayed on the 49th floor of the gorgeous Conrad Hotel and our room looked out across the harbor to the mainland. At night the skyline came to life in an impressive display of color and design. Matt and Alex took the ferry across the harbor one night to watch the light show and it was unbelievable. Hong Kong is immaculate! The city is clean, well-planned and a pleasure to move around in. We only had three days here so we really didn’t do too much, but we were happy to see movies, window shop and walk the streets. One day we took the subway (another remarkable aspect of the city) to see the giant Buddha at Po Lin Monastery in the mountains. As we rounded a corner along the water, suddenly we looked up and saw the 127 foot Buddha perched way on top of this lush, green hill. It was so magical. When we got to the top of the mountain, we climbed the stairs and walked around the Buddha grounds for a while. We were really glad we made the effort to go see him because he was so inspiring. Unfortunately, the pictures don’t really capture the magnificence of his presence. The people are extremely civil, kind and gentle. We loved Hong Kong and all agreed to return for another visit someday in the future. Off to Shanghai!
Monday, July 7, 2008
Ubud, Bali
Bali has been waiting patiently for us since we left in February. It seemed like an exotic, far-away place when we headed out of Malibu and the closer we got, the more excited we all were to experience it. We decided to stay in Ubud, the “soul” of Bali, and we were really happy we did because we had the opportunity to participate in local traditions, enjoy the beautiful landscapes of the rice paddie fields and have a chance to interact with the Balinese people. We stayed at the Honeymoon Guesthouse, which had been a suggestion of an Australian woman, named Fiona, whom we had met in Tanzania. It was a lovely suggestion because the Guesthouse has huge Balinese style rooms with verandahs for breakfast and napping, lush, tropical landscaping with moss covered stone walkways and planters, Hindu sculptures, and warm hospitality that made our eight day stay here blissful.
When we first arrived we learned there were preparations in the center of Ubud for the largest cremation ceremony Bali has ever experienced. On July 15th (we missed it) Bali is cremating two of its royals in a ceremony to end all ceremonies. The funeral bier is unbelievably complex and grand, and every temple in town is filled with people working on costumes or decorations for the cremation. The “Bade”, which is the cremation tower that carries the bodies to the cremation fire, is made of bamboo, papier mache and cotton, is over 27 meters high. Since we first arrived we have watched the progress of the preparations and it’s quite remarkable how much effort and manpower is going in to this celebration of death. Too bad we’ll miss the festivities.
We knew we had to experience some Balinese dance so we headed to The Palace and watched a Bayrung traditional dance with elaborate costuming and make-up and beautiful live instrumentation. The storytelling, through eye and hand movements, is really exquisite and beautiful to watch. We also drove to Uluwatu, on the beach, to experience the Kecak performers and the Fire Dance at sunset at Uluwatu Temple. Kecak comes from the chattering cak-cak sounds the men make who serve as the chorus for the dancers. It’s a very unique experience and we’re happy we made the effort to go.
There’s great food in Ubud – everywhere. Matt and Madeline took a cooking class held at the Guesthouse and they loved it. They learned how to make chicken satay, corn fritter, bean salad with warm coconut dressing, peanut sauce, and yellow rice. In addition, the chef gave the class a detailed demonstration of local healing herbs and spices and how to prepare them. Matt and Madeline were soooo happy to be back in the kitchen where they belong! (Alex and I went shopping). The woman who owns the Guesthouse also owns an incredible restaurant, Casa Luna, where we enjoyed five great meals in eight days!
Matt and I took off one day and took a two hour walk around the outskirts of Ubud through some extraordinary rice paddie fields. We’ve all been very intrigued with the process of growing and harvesting rice and it’s been a constant theme in our travels since Nepal. The rice paddie landscape provides a Zen aesthetic that is so soothing. The paddies in Bali are extremely well organized and efficient. We’re hoping to experience a harvest in China or Japan.
I had the best birthday ever this year. We met a wonderful family from Australia, Anne and her daughter Annie and son Imre, and we celebrated my birthday by rafting down the Ayung River with them. What a fun day we had. We drove to the river, hiked down into the gorge, rafted, swam, jumped off rocks and stood in waterfalls, then hiked back up the gorge where a yummy lunch was waiting for us. Back at the hotel, I was treated to the best (and cheapest) massage I’ve ever had and we ended the night with dinner at Indus, another incredible restaurant in Ubud. I’ll never forget my 47th birthday!
The Monkey Forest in Ubud was mystical and hysterical. The forest is beautiful, with lush vegetation, walkways, huge trees and stone sculptures. Hundreds of monkeys swing from the vines, laze on the paths and chase each other around right under your feet. The environment is a bit unnatural because the monkeys are so accustomed to people so they’re a little nuts! They grab water bottles out of people’s hands, climb on their shoulders and bite people! (we later met a woman in our hotel pool that had been bitten in the hip by an angry monkey!) Bad monkey.
One of my absolute favorite things we did in Bali was visit the Bali Bird Park. The park is a combination of aviary environments and birds that naturally live in the park. The park is home to exotic birds from South America, Indonesia, Africa and Southeast Asia. They have a fantastic collection and we loved interacting with the cockatoos, hornbills and parrots. We walked into one aviary and were admiring the colorful birds when we all looked up and spotted two of the largest bats we’ve ever seen in our lives. They we’re hanging from the top net of the aviary and had their wings wrapped around their bodies with their little brown fuzzy head popping out of the top. The bats we’re at least 16 inches long and they had these very sinister looking long, pointy noses with very visible white sharp teeth! They were so creepy and now I completely understand how the imagination of Brams Stoker ran wild with the creation of Dracula!
Bali was everything we had hoped it would be and as we move into the last few days of our travels we are well-rested, strong of spirit and excited about exploring China and Japan. See you in Hong Kong.
When we first arrived we learned there were preparations in the center of Ubud for the largest cremation ceremony Bali has ever experienced. On July 15th (we missed it) Bali is cremating two of its royals in a ceremony to end all ceremonies. The funeral bier is unbelievably complex and grand, and every temple in town is filled with people working on costumes or decorations for the cremation. The “Bade”, which is the cremation tower that carries the bodies to the cremation fire, is made of bamboo, papier mache and cotton, is over 27 meters high. Since we first arrived we have watched the progress of the preparations and it’s quite remarkable how much effort and manpower is going in to this celebration of death. Too bad we’ll miss the festivities.
We knew we had to experience some Balinese dance so we headed to The Palace and watched a Bayrung traditional dance with elaborate costuming and make-up and beautiful live instrumentation. The storytelling, through eye and hand movements, is really exquisite and beautiful to watch. We also drove to Uluwatu, on the beach, to experience the Kecak performers and the Fire Dance at sunset at Uluwatu Temple. Kecak comes from the chattering cak-cak sounds the men make who serve as the chorus for the dancers. It’s a very unique experience and we’re happy we made the effort to go.
There’s great food in Ubud – everywhere. Matt and Madeline took a cooking class held at the Guesthouse and they loved it. They learned how to make chicken satay, corn fritter, bean salad with warm coconut dressing, peanut sauce, and yellow rice. In addition, the chef gave the class a detailed demonstration of local healing herbs and spices and how to prepare them. Matt and Madeline were soooo happy to be back in the kitchen where they belong! (Alex and I went shopping). The woman who owns the Guesthouse also owns an incredible restaurant, Casa Luna, where we enjoyed five great meals in eight days!
Matt and I took off one day and took a two hour walk around the outskirts of Ubud through some extraordinary rice paddie fields. We’ve all been very intrigued with the process of growing and harvesting rice and it’s been a constant theme in our travels since Nepal. The rice paddie landscape provides a Zen aesthetic that is so soothing. The paddies in Bali are extremely well organized and efficient. We’re hoping to experience a harvest in China or Japan.
I had the best birthday ever this year. We met a wonderful family from Australia, Anne and her daughter Annie and son Imre, and we celebrated my birthday by rafting down the Ayung River with them. What a fun day we had. We drove to the river, hiked down into the gorge, rafted, swam, jumped off rocks and stood in waterfalls, then hiked back up the gorge where a yummy lunch was waiting for us. Back at the hotel, I was treated to the best (and cheapest) massage I’ve ever had and we ended the night with dinner at Indus, another incredible restaurant in Ubud. I’ll never forget my 47th birthday!
The Monkey Forest in Ubud was mystical and hysterical. The forest is beautiful, with lush vegetation, walkways, huge trees and stone sculptures. Hundreds of monkeys swing from the vines, laze on the paths and chase each other around right under your feet. The environment is a bit unnatural because the monkeys are so accustomed to people so they’re a little nuts! They grab water bottles out of people’s hands, climb on their shoulders and bite people! (we later met a woman in our hotel pool that had been bitten in the hip by an angry monkey!) Bad monkey.
One of my absolute favorite things we did in Bali was visit the Bali Bird Park. The park is a combination of aviary environments and birds that naturally live in the park. The park is home to exotic birds from South America, Indonesia, Africa and Southeast Asia. They have a fantastic collection and we loved interacting with the cockatoos, hornbills and parrots. We walked into one aviary and were admiring the colorful birds when we all looked up and spotted two of the largest bats we’ve ever seen in our lives. They we’re hanging from the top net of the aviary and had their wings wrapped around their bodies with their little brown fuzzy head popping out of the top. The bats we’re at least 16 inches long and they had these very sinister looking long, pointy noses with very visible white sharp teeth! They were so creepy and now I completely understand how the imagination of Brams Stoker ran wild with the creation of Dracula!
Bali was everything we had hoped it would be and as we move into the last few days of our travels we are well-rested, strong of spirit and excited about exploring China and Japan. See you in Hong Kong.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Viet Nam
We knew we wanted to travel through Viet Nam on this trip, but we weren’t exactly sure how to make the most of five days we had to spend there. Our airline tickets were from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City, but everyone we talked to kept saying “head north, head north!” So, that’s what we did. We bought another flight to Hanoi, spent the night there and then hired a car the next morning to drive us to Ha Long Bay, which we had heard was incredibly beautiful. Three and one half hours later we arrived in the bay and then boarded a wooden hotel boat which would take us out to Cat Ba Island. The boat we were put on turned out to be an overnight cruise for most of the passengers on board – we were just hitching a ride out to Cat Ba Island. What could have been a 45 minute boat ride, turned into a four hour leisurely cruise through the massive limestone islands, with a stop off on one of the island to tour some totally cool caves. It was hot, there was definitely a language challenge, and it was a long day of travel, but we were really glad we had the chance to cruise the bay because it was beautiful. Ha Long Bay is considered one of the many “wonders of the world” and it really deserves the distinction. As you cruise through the dramatic outcroppings of rock and vegetation, you get the feeling that there’s no end to the surroundings.
We arrived on Cat Ba Island and were dropped off at the pier, where we were supposed to call our hotel and have them come pick us up. They forgot to tell us there’s no cell phone service at the pier, so after a little negotiating and bribery, Matt communicated with one of the locals enough to convince him to drive on his motor scooter far enough to get cell reception so he could call us a taxi. About an hour later this little tiny blue car pulls up to the pier and we just all cracked up. By that time, it didn’t matter – we were bound and determined to pile into the car for the 30 minute drive across the island to our hotel! The island is something out of Jurassic Park and we fully expected to see a T-Rex nibbling on some tourists! Cat Ba is a national park and protected by UNESCO and it’s a really unique ecosystem. Needless to say, we were all ready for a swim in the South China Sea, a few beers and some decent food. We were pretty wiped out that night, but really happy to be on the island and in our nice hotel rooms which look out across the sea to some more stunning islands. Matt and I rented a tandem bike and cruised around town one day, but aside from that, we were pretty content to walk on the trails on the island, swim, read and watch movies at night.
The trip back to Hanoi was another exciting adventure, but all in all, we were glad we made the effort (that’s the mild explanation) to get out to the Bay. We were really pleased to be back at the Bro and Sis Hotel in Hanoi where we were greeted like old friends. We cleaned up and headed out for dinner, only to find that the restaurant didn’t take VISA. Matt went in search of an ATM and after about an hour of trying several machines to no avail, he returned to the restaurant. We were cracking up because as we waited in the air conditioned restaurant, Matt was out there negotiating with a local who finally put him on the back of his scooter and drove him around the lake to a working ATM. It was quite comical and after a three day “Comedy of Errors”, we really just had to laugh. Matt returned victorious with cash in hand and the entire restaurant clapped and patted us on the backs as we left! There’s something about being in a place where it doesn’t matter what color your American Express is, or how much money is in your bank account, cash is cash. The great equalizer!
With full bellies and a few glasses of wine in us, we decided to walk for a while before returning to our hotel. We walked the busy streets, horns honking, motor scooters whizzing by, tiny plastic stools and tables set up in front of makeshift restaurants for serving food to the locals, trash piled in the streets, men smoking, kids playing and vendors selling their fruits and vegetables. In moments like this, you can either savor the sights, smells and chaos, or you can repel from it and hurry back to the sanctuary of your hotel room. I think the greatest gift this trip has given me is the ability to just take it all in – smell it, smile at it, feel it, engage it and burn it into the memory of my mind and soul.
We arrived on Cat Ba Island and were dropped off at the pier, where we were supposed to call our hotel and have them come pick us up. They forgot to tell us there’s no cell phone service at the pier, so after a little negotiating and bribery, Matt communicated with one of the locals enough to convince him to drive on his motor scooter far enough to get cell reception so he could call us a taxi. About an hour later this little tiny blue car pulls up to the pier and we just all cracked up. By that time, it didn’t matter – we were bound and determined to pile into the car for the 30 minute drive across the island to our hotel! The island is something out of Jurassic Park and we fully expected to see a T-Rex nibbling on some tourists! Cat Ba is a national park and protected by UNESCO and it’s a really unique ecosystem. Needless to say, we were all ready for a swim in the South China Sea, a few beers and some decent food. We were pretty wiped out that night, but really happy to be on the island and in our nice hotel rooms which look out across the sea to some more stunning islands. Matt and I rented a tandem bike and cruised around town one day, but aside from that, we were pretty content to walk on the trails on the island, swim, read and watch movies at night.
The trip back to Hanoi was another exciting adventure, but all in all, we were glad we made the effort (that’s the mild explanation) to get out to the Bay. We were really pleased to be back at the Bro and Sis Hotel in Hanoi where we were greeted like old friends. We cleaned up and headed out for dinner, only to find that the restaurant didn’t take VISA. Matt went in search of an ATM and after about an hour of trying several machines to no avail, he returned to the restaurant. We were cracking up because as we waited in the air conditioned restaurant, Matt was out there negotiating with a local who finally put him on the back of his scooter and drove him around the lake to a working ATM. It was quite comical and after a three day “Comedy of Errors”, we really just had to laugh. Matt returned victorious with cash in hand and the entire restaurant clapped and patted us on the backs as we left! There’s something about being in a place where it doesn’t matter what color your American Express is, or how much money is in your bank account, cash is cash. The great equalizer!
With full bellies and a few glasses of wine in us, we decided to walk for a while before returning to our hotel. We walked the busy streets, horns honking, motor scooters whizzing by, tiny plastic stools and tables set up in front of makeshift restaurants for serving food to the locals, trash piled in the streets, men smoking, kids playing and vendors selling their fruits and vegetables. In moments like this, you can either savor the sights, smells and chaos, or you can repel from it and hurry back to the sanctuary of your hotel room. I think the greatest gift this trip has given me is the ability to just take it all in – smell it, smile at it, feel it, engage it and burn it into the memory of my mind and soul.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Cambodia - Siem Reap and Phnom Penh
Cambodia has been high on my list of places I’ve wanted to travel to for quite some time. From the photos I’d seen, I’d always been intrigued with Angkor Wat and the beauty of the natural environment of Cambodia. We were treated to the most vigorous downpour of monsoon rain as we landed in the Siem Reap airport, but the skies were blue by the time we reached our hotel, which was lovely. Cambodia is a country still recovering from an incredibly painful period of genocide that virtually left no one in the country unscathed. Our tour, guide, Bun Rath, shared with us how he had lost his mother, father, sister and brother during the Khmer Rouge regime. He was very young and remembers very little – just that he grew up without his family. The town of Siem Reap is slow paced, simple, calm and thriving off tourism generated by Angkor Wat. We spent four days touring the surrounding temples (which I had no idea existed!) of Angkor Thom, Preah Khan, Ta Phrom, Banteay Srei, Bayon and the Elephant Terrace and Leper King Terrace. Of course, the highlight was Angkor Wat which was just beautiful, magical and impressive. I was really taken with Angkor Thom, the temple with the smiling Buddha faces on the towers. You could just feel the happy spirits all around you. Bayon temple was draped with banyon trees that have literally climbed on top of the temple walls and spill down from the wall edges as their roots reach for the ground. It’s quite alien and mysterious. Most of the temples were originally built as Buddhist temples, then at some point, as leadership changed, converted to Hindu temples. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of Buddha images and carvings that have been removed and replaced with Hindu Aspara dancers. But, Buddha lives on in Angkor Wat and even though the temple is originally Hindu, you can stop and give offerings to Buddha in a stupa in the middle of the temple. Alex had a really special experience when a sweet, elder Buddhist monk took her hand and invited her to pray with him. He gave her incense and had her kneel with him as he chanted a prayer for her. She placed her offering in the sand in front of Buddha then the monk invited her to sit with him for a while as he read her good fortune and tied a red string bracelet around her wrist as he chanted another prayer of protection and good luck. It was so cool to watch and the two of them have obviously connected before in some other lifetime. Very sweet and moving.
We also took a boat tour out on the Tonle Sap Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. It was fascinating to observe “life on the lake”. There’s quite a bit of poverty and it was incredible to see how resourceful people can be when they have so little. Families live on small wooden fishing boats, covered with tree branches and palm fronds and most of them sleep in hammocks. They have so little, but we were amazed by how many boat huts were equipped with modern day TV’s! Pretty crazy. Sadly, the lake is used for every part of their daily life – washing, cooking, fishing, and eliminating. Very sad.
We loved the Cambodian people – especially the children. We all noticed how easy it was to catch someone’s eye and get a huge, warm grin from them as they passed you on their motor scooters, or just walking down the streets. The kids are playful and generous and very smart and engaging. It’s a sad reality that so many Cambodian’s are missing limbs due to the millions of landmines that were planted during Pol Pot’s regime, but it doesn’t stop them from playing music, selling books and being productive. It’s pretty inspiring and another reminder of our own good fortune.
We only spent two nights in Phnom Penh, but we managed to get out to the Killing Fields with the Bones Memorial, S-21 which was the high school turned into an interrogation center, the Grand Palace and Independence Memorial. Again, it’s hard to comprehend the senseless killing of approximately 4 million Cambodian men, women and children – and to think it all happened while I was going to the drive-in movies, playing soccer and finishing high school. I read another great book called “When Broken Glass Floats”, by Chanrithy Han, which is the story of a Cambodian girl’s survival of the Khmer Rouge. It’s a really well written account of what the Cambodian people were experiencing during this time. Very sad, but very enlightening.
Cambodia has so much to offer, but I’d have to say, its greatest asset is its people. I’d return to Cambodia just to visit the people.
We also took a boat tour out on the Tonle Sap Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. It was fascinating to observe “life on the lake”. There’s quite a bit of poverty and it was incredible to see how resourceful people can be when they have so little. Families live on small wooden fishing boats, covered with tree branches and palm fronds and most of them sleep in hammocks. They have so little, but we were amazed by how many boat huts were equipped with modern day TV’s! Pretty crazy. Sadly, the lake is used for every part of their daily life – washing, cooking, fishing, and eliminating. Very sad.
We loved the Cambodian people – especially the children. We all noticed how easy it was to catch someone’s eye and get a huge, warm grin from them as they passed you on their motor scooters, or just walking down the streets. The kids are playful and generous and very smart and engaging. It’s a sad reality that so many Cambodian’s are missing limbs due to the millions of landmines that were planted during Pol Pot’s regime, but it doesn’t stop them from playing music, selling books and being productive. It’s pretty inspiring and another reminder of our own good fortune.
We only spent two nights in Phnom Penh, but we managed to get out to the Killing Fields with the Bones Memorial, S-21 which was the high school turned into an interrogation center, the Grand Palace and Independence Memorial. Again, it’s hard to comprehend the senseless killing of approximately 4 million Cambodian men, women and children – and to think it all happened while I was going to the drive-in movies, playing soccer and finishing high school. I read another great book called “When Broken Glass Floats”, by Chanrithy Han, which is the story of a Cambodian girl’s survival of the Khmer Rouge. It’s a really well written account of what the Cambodian people were experiencing during this time. Very sad, but very enlightening.
Cambodia has so much to offer, but I’d have to say, its greatest asset is its people. I’d return to Cambodia just to visit the people.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Thailand
The moment we landed on the runway in Bangkok, I knew I’d love this city. Our first impression of this metropolis was that of the night skyline and the gorgeous, modern airport. There is definitely truth in the notion that the airport sets the tone for a person’s experience of a city. On our travels, we’ve so far landed in 21 different cities (we have 10 more to go) and I can honestly say… they haven’t all been winners. The airport in Delhi was atrocious (although under construction) and I have to admit, it set a mood that was hard to shake. Anyway, back to Bangkok. We drove to Old Bangkok where we stayed in a ten room guesthouse called the Old Bangkok Inn. The Inn was designed in that fabulous Thai style of teak wood and warm green colors and we loved it! The charming elderly couple that ran the Inn was so incredibly sweet – like all the Thai people we met.
Our first chore in Bangkok was to head to Raja’s Fashions and have some custom suits and shirts made for Matt. He had read about Raja in Men’s Vogue and we knew we had to go see Raja and his son Bobby. We jumped on a river boat, which dropped us in the shopping district, and then we took the Sky Train the rest of the way. We were so impressed with the cleanliness and ease of getting around the city. Raja’s Fashions was a great experience. Matt was very well taken care of by Bobby and his father and he ended up buying three suits, six custom shirts and four ties (all for the cost of one nice suit in the U.S.) We spent the rest of the day shopping at MBK and the Paragon Mall where Matt took Alex to a special Lomography photography exhibit that we just happened to catch on the opening day. The exhibit was definitely the hip place to be and Alex had a blast being part of the scene.
We spent one full day in Bangkok visiting the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Po where the golden, reclining Buddha rests, and Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). The Grand Palace was one massive jewel box! The entire palace is decorated with tiny pieces of gold, emerald green, cobalt blue, red and yellow tiles. It’s remarkable and we were really taken with the whole complex. The reclining Buddha was another extraordinary site; lying on his side with his head perched in his hand and completely covered in gold, he was very impressive. The Temple of the Dawn is an unusual temple made from broken pieces of porcelain and pottery. It’s more organic then some of the other temples, but also, very striking. Later in the evening, we went out for a completely authentic Thai dinner. They told us “no worry… no hot for you”, which basically meant we left with our tongues intact, but with no taste buds attached!
The only regret we had about Thailand was that we didn’t head far enough south for our three beach days. We decided to go to Hau Hin, in the Gulf of Thailand, and it was quite unimpressive. We ended up staying at a really nice Hilton, on the beach, but it was a little disappointing because we wanted to snorkel and see some blue water. We made the best of it and enjoyed bopping around the town, getting Thai foot massages and pedicures, and eating some good food. Next time, we’ll go to Ko Samui or Phuket.
We headed back to Bangkok for one more fitting at Raja’s, then off to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Bangkok was a great experience – the people are friendly and warm, the city is vibrant, clean and easy to be in, and the Thai culture is beautiful and invites you to come back for another visit.
Our first chore in Bangkok was to head to Raja’s Fashions and have some custom suits and shirts made for Matt. He had read about Raja in Men’s Vogue and we knew we had to go see Raja and his son Bobby. We jumped on a river boat, which dropped us in the shopping district, and then we took the Sky Train the rest of the way. We were so impressed with the cleanliness and ease of getting around the city. Raja’s Fashions was a great experience. Matt was very well taken care of by Bobby and his father and he ended up buying three suits, six custom shirts and four ties (all for the cost of one nice suit in the U.S.) We spent the rest of the day shopping at MBK and the Paragon Mall where Matt took Alex to a special Lomography photography exhibit that we just happened to catch on the opening day. The exhibit was definitely the hip place to be and Alex had a blast being part of the scene.
We spent one full day in Bangkok visiting the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Po where the golden, reclining Buddha rests, and Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). The Grand Palace was one massive jewel box! The entire palace is decorated with tiny pieces of gold, emerald green, cobalt blue, red and yellow tiles. It’s remarkable and we were really taken with the whole complex. The reclining Buddha was another extraordinary site; lying on his side with his head perched in his hand and completely covered in gold, he was very impressive. The Temple of the Dawn is an unusual temple made from broken pieces of porcelain and pottery. It’s more organic then some of the other temples, but also, very striking. Later in the evening, we went out for a completely authentic Thai dinner. They told us “no worry… no hot for you”, which basically meant we left with our tongues intact, but with no taste buds attached!
The only regret we had about Thailand was that we didn’t head far enough south for our three beach days. We decided to go to Hau Hin, in the Gulf of Thailand, and it was quite unimpressive. We ended up staying at a really nice Hilton, on the beach, but it was a little disappointing because we wanted to snorkel and see some blue water. We made the best of it and enjoyed bopping around the town, getting Thai foot massages and pedicures, and eating some good food. Next time, we’ll go to Ko Samui or Phuket.
We headed back to Bangkok for one more fitting at Raja’s, then off to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Bangkok was a great experience – the people are friendly and warm, the city is vibrant, clean and easy to be in, and the Thai culture is beautiful and invites you to come back for another visit.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Kathmandu, Nepal
Eighteen years ago I was planning a solo trip to Nepal, when a handsome, charming man came into my life and lets just say . . . I got a little side tracked. Matt had just returned from his six month travels around the world and he would leave me maps and brochures of Nepal on my desk at work , being the supportive new boyfriend that he was. I never took that trip, but I never doubted that, one day, we'd go to Nepal as a family. So, it was a long time coming, but so worth the wait, and so much fun to share it with Alex, Madeline and Matt.
We stationed ourselves in the Thamel area of Kathmandu, which is where all the trekkers and mountain bikers base themselves before taking off to the Himalayas. We spent eight days at the Kathmandu Guesthouse, a hip little spot with spacious, clean rooms (at $40 per night!) gardens, a small bar, restaurants and plenty of places to hang out and meet other world travelers. Out of all the places we've traveled so far, Kathmandu seemed to attract the most adventurous breed of travelers. We met a couple from Holland who have been riding their bikes around the world for three years. There was Ai from China, who decided to live at the Guesthouse for four months to learn English. A bright light in our Nepal trip was meeting Alex from Toronto, who was working in Bombay, but came to Kathmandu in hopes of renewing her India Visa. Alex is a smart,
beautiful, promising young woman, who celebrated her 23rd birthday at the Guesthouse. The girls were really taken with her - especially our Alex (and even better that they shared the same name). The more people we met, the more our six month travels started sounding like a three-day weekend to the Mystery Spot in Arizona! There are some really courageous people out there in the world and we just soaked in the stories and personalities while we were there.
The monsoon season is well underway in Nepal which meant that every day we had dramatic rain storms that lasted for at least an hour. The day we decided to visit the Monkey Temple, it dumped rain the moment we finished our long climb to the top and we were stranded up there for about an hour. On another day we took a four hour trek through the farm lands outside of Kathmandu and just as we sat down for lunch, the clouds broke loose. We had hiked to 7,200 feet and we had a front row seat of the parading thunder clouds. The forever views of the fertile green terraced mountains, which produce rice, corn and potatoes, completely disappeared in the downpour. The trek was definitely a highlight and left Matt and I with a desire to return to Nepal for a more extensive, long-term trek.
It was very interesting to have been in Nepal, especially Kathmandu, for such a historical moment in Nepal's history. The deposed Nepali king left his palace to begin his life as a civilian in the new republic on Wednesday, June 11th. The media were all over that place and we spoke with some French journalists, our neighbors at the Guesthouse, who shared some grim insight into the future of the Nepalese political situation. The country is in transition and hopefully will fare well through the journey.
We managed to venture out to Durbar Square, Patan (which is where the Temple of 1,000 Buddhas is), Bakhtapur and all over Thamel. The temples and architecture of the old sections of the city are so beautiful. The people are gentle and good-natured and we particulary had fun with the kids in the streets and around the temples. They like to engage you, often to sell you something, but sometimes they just want to laugh with you and be silly. I carried suckers around in my purse and had a lot of fun handing them out to willing takers. I'll never forget one little boy (about five) who took a sucker, smiled and said thanks, then disappeared. About 1/2 hour later, we were leaving in the taxi and the same boy was running along side us, holding his sucker in the air, waving and smiling at me.It's a mental picture I will never forget.
There is so much more to explore in Nepal, but now, it's under my skin, so I know I'll return. Alex was completely taken with Thamel, the glimpse of trekking, and the "culture" of the Guesthouse. She's itching to get back very soon!
I'm reading The Snow Leopard right now and it's a beautifully written account of one man's spiritual, physical and emotional journey as he treks through the Himalayas of Nepal. I don't think I'd ever be that ambitous, but the story is an inspiring one. I think there are many people who travel to Nepal with big dreams and aspirations and you can just feel it in the air when you're there. I feel very blessed to have experienced the wonder of Nepal.
Namaste
We stationed ourselves in the Thamel area of Kathmandu, which is where all the trekkers and mountain bikers base themselves before taking off to the Himalayas. We spent eight days at the Kathmandu Guesthouse, a hip little spot with spacious, clean rooms (at $40 per night!) gardens, a small bar, restaurants and plenty of places to hang out and meet other world travelers. Out of all the places we've traveled so far, Kathmandu seemed to attract the most adventurous breed of travelers. We met a couple from Holland who have been riding their bikes around the world for three years. There was Ai from China, who decided to live at the Guesthouse for four months to learn English. A bright light in our Nepal trip was meeting Alex from Toronto, who was working in Bombay, but came to Kathmandu in hopes of renewing her India Visa. Alex is a smart,
beautiful, promising young woman, who celebrated her 23rd birthday at the Guesthouse. The girls were really taken with her - especially our Alex (and even better that they shared the same name). The more people we met, the more our six month travels started sounding like a three-day weekend to the Mystery Spot in Arizona! There are some really courageous people out there in the world and we just soaked in the stories and personalities while we were there.
The monsoon season is well underway in Nepal which meant that every day we had dramatic rain storms that lasted for at least an hour. The day we decided to visit the Monkey Temple, it dumped rain the moment we finished our long climb to the top and we were stranded up there for about an hour. On another day we took a four hour trek through the farm lands outside of Kathmandu and just as we sat down for lunch, the clouds broke loose. We had hiked to 7,200 feet and we had a front row seat of the parading thunder clouds. The forever views of the fertile green terraced mountains, which produce rice, corn and potatoes, completely disappeared in the downpour. The trek was definitely a highlight and left Matt and I with a desire to return to Nepal for a more extensive, long-term trek.
It was very interesting to have been in Nepal, especially Kathmandu, for such a historical moment in Nepal's history. The deposed Nepali king left his palace to begin his life as a civilian in the new republic on Wednesday, June 11th. The media were all over that place and we spoke with some French journalists, our neighbors at the Guesthouse, who shared some grim insight into the future of the Nepalese political situation. The country is in transition and hopefully will fare well through the journey.
We managed to venture out to Durbar Square, Patan (which is where the Temple of 1,000 Buddhas is), Bakhtapur and all over Thamel. The temples and architecture of the old sections of the city are so beautiful. The people are gentle and good-natured and we particulary had fun with the kids in the streets and around the temples. They like to engage you, often to sell you something, but sometimes they just want to laugh with you and be silly. I carried suckers around in my purse and had a lot of fun handing them out to willing takers. I'll never forget one little boy (about five) who took a sucker, smiled and said thanks, then disappeared. About 1/2 hour later, we were leaving in the taxi and the same boy was running along side us, holding his sucker in the air, waving and smiling at me.It's a mental picture I will never forget.
There is so much more to explore in Nepal, but now, it's under my skin, so I know I'll return. Alex was completely taken with Thamel, the glimpse of trekking, and the "culture" of the Guesthouse. She's itching to get back very soon!
I'm reading The Snow Leopard right now and it's a beautifully written account of one man's spiritual, physical and emotional journey as he treks through the Himalayas of Nepal. I don't think I'd ever be that ambitous, but the story is an inspiring one. I think there are many people who travel to Nepal with big dreams and aspirations and you can just feel it in the air when you're there. I feel very blessed to have experienced the wonder of Nepal.
Namaste
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Delhi, India
When we planned to include India in this trip, we knew going in that we would not be able to give India the time it deserved to really get to know it. Instead of skipping the country altogether, we decided to spend four days in Delhi with the few expectations of seeing the Taj Mahal and visiting the markets. What we experienced in India, we could never have planned for, had we stayed there for a whole month.
The best decision we made was to forego the big hotels and stay at a very small guesthouse tucked away in a neighborhood in the heart of Delhi. The guesthouse, The Thikana, felt just like we were staying in someone’s home. We got in very early in the morning, after a long flight, so we all crashed right away. When we woke up in the late morning, we were greeted in the dining room by the lovely people who run the guesthouse, Sheetal, her mom, Geeta and her cousin Geetu. We sat for a long time and chatted with these amazing women and when we finally left to explore for the afternoon, we couldn’t wait to come “home” to have dinner with our new family! The next three days were more of the same – lots of laughs, sharing stories of travel, family and philosophies on life. The girls were so taken with the three women and declared Geetu their Indian Aunt.
We spent one entire day traveling to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and it was a sensory overload! Driving through that part of India is chaotic, depressing, beautiful, heart wrenching, humorous and filled with the constant honking of car horns. The Taj Mahal was gorgeous and everything you would expect it to be. We also spent a day with a driver who took us around Delhi to Humayun’s Tomb, Qutb-Minar, the Lotus Temple, few really fun markets and the post office! Qutb-Minar was one of my favorite ruins. It’s just gorgeous and serene and I love the Indian and Arab details in the architecture. The markets were fun and I found some really cool paper products and leather sandals that I really love. We went to the post office to mail a package and it was a complete trip to participate in the protocol India’s postal service. You hand your parcel over to a little man who takes it and wraps it in white muslin, then stitches the edges and ends together so the whole package is concealed like a present. Then he finishes off the seams with hot, red wax, seals it, sews in the mailing instructions, and glues another form onto the front of the package. It took about an hour to mail two letters and one package! We have some great stories from post office experiences all over the planet. I definitely have a greater appreciation for the USPS.
We ended our India stay with an incredible Indian dinner at Bukhara in the Mauyra Hotel. The food was absolutely some of the best we’ve ever had. The chicken dishes were incredible and the black lentils are a restaurant specialty. We ate with our hands, which made the meal that much better. We went home to rest, but the party didn’t stop there as Atul, Sheetal’s husband, was waiting for Matt so they could share a scotch and cigar. I’m not exactly sure what time Matt crawled into our room, but he didn’t have to drive, so it didn’t matter!
It was really difficult to say goodbye to our Delhi family and I don’t think they could possibly know how grateful we were to have been so welcomed and cared for in their special home by such a warm family. We vowed to meet again someday and the heart of India was revealed to us in a way we never expected. We will return to India – it draws you in and you want to feel more.
The best decision we made was to forego the big hotels and stay at a very small guesthouse tucked away in a neighborhood in the heart of Delhi. The guesthouse, The Thikana, felt just like we were staying in someone’s home. We got in very early in the morning, after a long flight, so we all crashed right away. When we woke up in the late morning, we were greeted in the dining room by the lovely people who run the guesthouse, Sheetal, her mom, Geeta and her cousin Geetu. We sat for a long time and chatted with these amazing women and when we finally left to explore for the afternoon, we couldn’t wait to come “home” to have dinner with our new family! The next three days were more of the same – lots of laughs, sharing stories of travel, family and philosophies on life. The girls were so taken with the three women and declared Geetu their Indian Aunt.
We spent one entire day traveling to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and it was a sensory overload! Driving through that part of India is chaotic, depressing, beautiful, heart wrenching, humorous and filled with the constant honking of car horns. The Taj Mahal was gorgeous and everything you would expect it to be. We also spent a day with a driver who took us around Delhi to Humayun’s Tomb, Qutb-Minar, the Lotus Temple, few really fun markets and the post office! Qutb-Minar was one of my favorite ruins. It’s just gorgeous and serene and I love the Indian and Arab details in the architecture. The markets were fun and I found some really cool paper products and leather sandals that I really love. We went to the post office to mail a package and it was a complete trip to participate in the protocol India’s postal service. You hand your parcel over to a little man who takes it and wraps it in white muslin, then stitches the edges and ends together so the whole package is concealed like a present. Then he finishes off the seams with hot, red wax, seals it, sews in the mailing instructions, and glues another form onto the front of the package. It took about an hour to mail two letters and one package! We have some great stories from post office experiences all over the planet. I definitely have a greater appreciation for the USPS.
We ended our India stay with an incredible Indian dinner at Bukhara in the Mauyra Hotel. The food was absolutely some of the best we’ve ever had. The chicken dishes were incredible and the black lentils are a restaurant specialty. We ate with our hands, which made the meal that much better. We went home to rest, but the party didn’t stop there as Atul, Sheetal’s husband, was waiting for Matt so they could share a scotch and cigar. I’m not exactly sure what time Matt crawled into our room, but he didn’t have to drive, so it didn’t matter!
It was really difficult to say goodbye to our Delhi family and I don’t think they could possibly know how grateful we were to have been so welcomed and cared for in their special home by such a warm family. We vowed to meet again someday and the heart of India was revealed to us in a way we never expected. We will return to India – it draws you in and you want to feel more.
Dubai
Is it shallow of me to say that my favorite thing about Dubai was the carmel corn we ate at the giant Cineplex in the Emirates Mall while watching Indiana Jones? O.K., then how about this one; we all adored the experience of flying business class from Nairobi to Dubai and Dubai to Delhi on Emirates Airlines. Oh wait, no that’s no good. O.K., here’s one – we were so happy to have a nice condo with a washing machine so we could do all of our wash (I mean every last piece!). Well, you get the drift - there’s not much to love about Dubai except the modern conveniences of Western culture! It is a Middle Eastern phenomenon and a bit of an environmental disaster, but you have to love the entrepreneurial spirit there. The Emirates are all going berserk with development and there’s so much more to come. It was interesting to listen to the conversations of the young people (mostly English and Australian) who have come there to make their fortunes. From the sounds of it, there is plenty of fortune to go around. It’s a feeding frenzy!
We did have fun one night when we drove out to the desert in a four-wheeler and tore up the sand dunes for a few hours. The girls were screaming with laughter as we rolled over the tops of the sand dunes and felt like the whole car would roll over sliding down the side of the dune! It was exhilarating (but not environmentally p.c.!)Then, we all drove to a little desert oasis and had a fabulous Middle Eastern dinner and watched some belly dancing. They had sand-boarding, henna painting, camel riding and various other activities and it was really fun. We wanted to see Dubai for ourselves and I’m really glad we did. The people are absolutely beautiful, especially those in their national dress. Dubai has an amazing skyline, but sadly, you can so little of it through the sand clouds and pollution. It’s a wildly out-of-control place and now, we can say we’ve been there!
We did have fun one night when we drove out to the desert in a four-wheeler and tore up the sand dunes for a few hours. The girls were screaming with laughter as we rolled over the tops of the sand dunes and felt like the whole car would roll over sliding down the side of the dune! It was exhilarating (but not environmentally p.c.!)Then, we all drove to a little desert oasis and had a fabulous Middle Eastern dinner and watched some belly dancing. They had sand-boarding, henna painting, camel riding and various other activities and it was really fun. We wanted to see Dubai for ourselves and I’m really glad we did. The people are absolutely beautiful, especially those in their national dress. Dubai has an amazing skyline, but sadly, you can so little of it through the sand clouds and pollution. It’s a wildly out-of-control place and now, we can say we’ve been there!
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
May 25th, 2008 - Our 17th Wedding Anniversary
Masai Village, Ngorongoro Crater
Tanzania
This morning we woke up in the Serena Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater; a stunning property which sits up on the crater’s rim at 7,000 feet. Each room has a gorgeous view of the entire basin and we were up early to watch the sunrise and then the fog as it slowly rolled in over the upper edges of the perimeter of the crater. It was a beautiful way to begin our 17th anniversary.
After breakfast, we ventured out for a six hour safari of Ngorongoro Crater. In an unplanned turn of events, on the way down the crater, we decided to visit a local Masai Village where we were warmly welcomed by the men of the village, as they danced and sang for us. As we entered the village, we were immediately greeted by the women and children as they took our hands, smiled and laughed, placed their beaded collars over our heads, and decorated us with their jewelry. Matt then asked the head of the village if it might be possible to receive a Masai wedding blessing, as it was our 17th anniversary. After some more singing and dancing, we were ushered into the cow corral, where Matt and I were invited to sit down on two plastic buckets, as the entire village surrounded us. The ladies decorated me the best they could. They laughed as they took turns trying their beaded collars on me because my head is full of hair, and much larger then theirs! After four or five tries, finally they were satisfied to find one that fit. The men gave Matt a beaded leadership stick and a cow-tail switch, which is reserved for the village elders as a sign of respect (and used to swat flies!) The village elder, a beautiful man who might have been 60 or might have been 100, appeared before us to give us our blessing. He held a small gourd filled with cow’s milk and honey, and stuffed at the top with a type of weedy plant. As he gave us his blessing, he walked around us and sprinkled us with the honey milk. When that was done, he took the weedy plant and stuffed a bunch of it in Matt’s shirt and some in my jacket, close to our hearts. The blessing was over and Matt and I kissed and all the Masai ladies giggled. Our ceremony concluded with the Masai art of fire making, which is completely astonishing. The village elder retired to his hut and the ladies disappeared to wrangle the cows into the corral for the morning milking. We were then led to the kindergarten where about fifteen adorable Masai children were studying their English alphabet, numbers to 100, and some simple words. They were very serious as they studied, but they all smiled and laughed when we got silly with them. We were invited inside one of the Masai huts, which are made from sticks, grass, and cow dung. The huts are divided into four sections: the calf room (where six calves stay at night when it’s cold), the bed for the male, the bed for the females and children, and the center of the hut, which is for a small fire, cooking, and eating. All of this is contained within about 100 square feet. The hut was warm and cozy and incredibly efficient.
The Masai number about 500,000 in Kenya and Tanzania. They are some of the kindest, most gentle spirits we have ever met. The girls were so taken with their smiles and hospitality and meeting the Masai was one of their favorite experiences from Africa. They happily participated in our celebration and they were so supportive and sweet.
Matt and I have shared some really special anniversaries with great food, beautiful gifts, travel and celebrations with the girls, but nothing will ever compare to the beautiful day we spent at the Masai village in Tanzania. The blessing we received from these honest, kind people meant so much to us and we are forever grateful for their spirit and generosity.
Tanzania
This morning we woke up in the Serena Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater; a stunning property which sits up on the crater’s rim at 7,000 feet. Each room has a gorgeous view of the entire basin and we were up early to watch the sunrise and then the fog as it slowly rolled in over the upper edges of the perimeter of the crater. It was a beautiful way to begin our 17th anniversary.
After breakfast, we ventured out for a six hour safari of Ngorongoro Crater. In an unplanned turn of events, on the way down the crater, we decided to visit a local Masai Village where we were warmly welcomed by the men of the village, as they danced and sang for us. As we entered the village, we were immediately greeted by the women and children as they took our hands, smiled and laughed, placed their beaded collars over our heads, and decorated us with their jewelry. Matt then asked the head of the village if it might be possible to receive a Masai wedding blessing, as it was our 17th anniversary. After some more singing and dancing, we were ushered into the cow corral, where Matt and I were invited to sit down on two plastic buckets, as the entire village surrounded us. The ladies decorated me the best they could. They laughed as they took turns trying their beaded collars on me because my head is full of hair, and much larger then theirs! After four or five tries, finally they were satisfied to find one that fit. The men gave Matt a beaded leadership stick and a cow-tail switch, which is reserved for the village elders as a sign of respect (and used to swat flies!) The village elder, a beautiful man who might have been 60 or might have been 100, appeared before us to give us our blessing. He held a small gourd filled with cow’s milk and honey, and stuffed at the top with a type of weedy plant. As he gave us his blessing, he walked around us and sprinkled us with the honey milk. When that was done, he took the weedy plant and stuffed a bunch of it in Matt’s shirt and some in my jacket, close to our hearts. The blessing was over and Matt and I kissed and all the Masai ladies giggled. Our ceremony concluded with the Masai art of fire making, which is completely astonishing. The village elder retired to his hut and the ladies disappeared to wrangle the cows into the corral for the morning milking. We were then led to the kindergarten where about fifteen adorable Masai children were studying their English alphabet, numbers to 100, and some simple words. They were very serious as they studied, but they all smiled and laughed when we got silly with them. We were invited inside one of the Masai huts, which are made from sticks, grass, and cow dung. The huts are divided into four sections: the calf room (where six calves stay at night when it’s cold), the bed for the male, the bed for the females and children, and the center of the hut, which is for a small fire, cooking, and eating. All of this is contained within about 100 square feet. The hut was warm and cozy and incredibly efficient.
The Masai number about 500,000 in Kenya and Tanzania. They are some of the kindest, most gentle spirits we have ever met. The girls were so taken with their smiles and hospitality and meeting the Masai was one of their favorite experiences from Africa. They happily participated in our celebration and they were so supportive and sweet.
Matt and I have shared some really special anniversaries with great food, beautiful gifts, travel and celebrations with the girls, but nothing will ever compare to the beautiful day we spent at the Masai village in Tanzania. The blessing we received from these honest, kind people meant so much to us and we are forever grateful for their spirit and generosity.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Mombasa
We left the Masai Mara and headed back to Nairobi for one night before flying to Mombasa for five days at the beach. Our plan all along was to use this time to rest, finish up school work and enjoy the Indian Ocean. We stayed at another Serena property and it was quiet and lovely and exactly what we needed for the week. The tropical downpours of rain were thrilling and just the motivation we needed to get our work done. We played with the monkeys that dominate the property, walked on the white sandy beaches, talked to the African parrot in the lobby, played pool, worked out in the gym and took care of business. The week was relaxing and beautiful, but we were all very excited to get back on the little Twin Otter plane and fly to Tanzania for the rest of our safari adventure!
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Photo update
Uploading to Picasa is slow in Mombasa (hey, that rhymes), so I'll have to upload from Dubai in about 10 days.
Jambo from Masai Mara
After spending three great days in Nairobi, we flew out to the Masai Mara for a three day safari excursion. As our Air Kenya flight glided over the scenic Mara we were treated to herds of elephants, giraffes, zebras and gazelles! This was just a hint of what the next three days had in store for us. We stayed at the Serena Lodge, which is tucked away on a hillside overlooking the Masai Mara. The property perfectly blends into its environment and you would hardly notice it if you didn’t know it was there. It was lovely. Every room had wonderful views of the Mara and in the lot below the hotel we had daily visits from elephants, buffalo, a lion, giraffes, baboons and a hippo, not to mention the fantastic variety of birds. Our game ride guide for the three days was a sweet, funny and knowledgeable man named Julius. The four of us, along with another really fun couple from France, piled into the green safari jeep and took off for our first two-hour game ride. We had incredible luck on our first day out and all four of us were thrilled by the experience! Over the course of the six game rides we took, we observed cheetahs with their cubs, male and female lions with their cubs, hippos, crocodiles (huge!), elephants, giraffes, zebras, topis, warthogs, jackals, buffalos, gazelles, ostriches (the Masai Mara breed are massive), eagles, vultures, hyenas and cute little hyrax. Spotting the animals is one experience, but to sit in the open jeep and observe sixteen lions just twenty feet away from you, is quite another. To hear the sound a baby cub makes when it’s nuzzling its mommas face is remarkable. The zebras use big rocks as scratching posts and it’s pretty comical to watch. A lone buffalo was making a mess out of himself while he cooled off in a giant mud puddle – he almost seemed embarrassed when he saw us watching him. The male ostrich’s body slam each other as they try to get attention from the female! Two baby cheetah cubs sat patiently on a termite hill, anxiously awaiting the return of their momma as she stalked off for her morning hunt. As hippos emerge from the water, they twirl their ears to clear the water and blow water out of their noses with great force. Giraffes are pristine, graceful and perfectly silent. An entire herd of topis bowed their heads rhythmically, like a Japanese salutation, as we drove away from them. The entire jeep cracked up hysterically. The 6:30 am rides were so serene. The air is clean and sweet, the sunrise is breathtaking, the bird songs are delightful and the animals are ready for another day of survival. Every hour was a new adventure.
Here’s a good story. On our second day, Madeline decided to take a nap after our morning ride, while Matt, Alex and I went to the pool. As we were sitting at the pool, Matt happened to notice a very large (at least my size, with a much bigger butt!) baboon hopping up onto the hotel room decks, looking for an open door. As he approached our room, he hopped over the deck railing and disappeared! We had left our sliding door open – and Madeline was sleeping in the room next to us with the adjoining room door open! Everyone began yelling and running to the room and as the staff opened our door, the baboon was scared off and jumped out the sliding door! Madeline slept through the whole event (luckily). The baboon had just enough time to pull my carry on bag down from the desk and find a pack of gum that he apparently planned to chew!
On our first day we met three lovely men, Adam, Phil and Nawaz from BBC news based in Nairobi. They were in the Masai Mara doing a story on the effects of tourism after the post-election violence. They asked us if they could film us on our afternoon game ride and we agreed. We shared some beers and laughs with them later that night by the fire and we really enjoyed their company. We’ll keep you posted on the segment and when it will air so you can see our 15 seconds of fame!
We had breakfast with the hippos, danced with the Masai men, and generally had the time of our lives. I don’t think I have ever seen the girls so happy. The Kenyans are warm, funny and some of the most beautiful people we have ever met. Their hospitality is genuine and appreciated. Our French safari partners were hilarious and we fell in love with our guide, Julius. As our flight pulled away from the Mara Serena airstrip we looked out the window and there was Julius, jumping up and down, waving his hands in the air at us. It was sad to leave this special place behind, but as we flew over the Masai Mara, we got one last look at this miraculous site.
Here’s a good story. On our second day, Madeline decided to take a nap after our morning ride, while Matt, Alex and I went to the pool. As we were sitting at the pool, Matt happened to notice a very large (at least my size, with a much bigger butt!) baboon hopping up onto the hotel room decks, looking for an open door. As he approached our room, he hopped over the deck railing and disappeared! We had left our sliding door open – and Madeline was sleeping in the room next to us with the adjoining room door open! Everyone began yelling and running to the room and as the staff opened our door, the baboon was scared off and jumped out the sliding door! Madeline slept through the whole event (luckily). The baboon had just enough time to pull my carry on bag down from the desk and find a pack of gum that he apparently planned to chew!
On our first day we met three lovely men, Adam, Phil and Nawaz from BBC news based in Nairobi. They were in the Masai Mara doing a story on the effects of tourism after the post-election violence. They asked us if they could film us on our afternoon game ride and we agreed. We shared some beers and laughs with them later that night by the fire and we really enjoyed their company. We’ll keep you posted on the segment and when it will air so you can see our 15 seconds of fame!
We had breakfast with the hippos, danced with the Masai men, and generally had the time of our lives. I don’t think I have ever seen the girls so happy. The Kenyans are warm, funny and some of the most beautiful people we have ever met. Their hospitality is genuine and appreciated. Our French safari partners were hilarious and we fell in love with our guide, Julius. As our flight pulled away from the Mara Serena airstrip we looked out the window and there was Julius, jumping up and down, waving his hands in the air at us. It was sad to leave this special place behind, but as we flew over the Masai Mara, we got one last look at this miraculous site.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Israel
When we walked across the border from Taba, Egypt to Elat, Israel, I have to say, it was incredibly comforting to see the beautiful blue and white Israeli flags flying over the border crossing. We were ready to move on and we knew Israel would be a welcome site. Elat was so much fun. We only spent one night there but it was a total party atmosphere because it was a three day week-end celebrating the anniversary of Israel’s reunification. We walked along the beach, ate falafel (natch) and shopped around on the boardwalk of Niki Beach. The next day we took a bus to Jerusalem and the route took us all along the Dead Sea. Wow. I have never seen such beautiful colors in any body of water as those of the Dead Sea. It was an incredible site and I’m really happy we took the bus so we could experience that part of Israel.
Jerusalem is lovely. The people are peaceful and kind, the city is clean and pretty and. when you’re there it’s hard to imagine that so much political and emotional controversy surrounds this special place. We spent our three days exploring all four quarters of the Old City; the Jewish Quarter, the Armenian Quarter (we love you Lilly) the Muslim Quarter and the Christian Quarter. Contained within the walls of the old city are the very roots of Christian, Muslim and Jewish religions. The Holy Sepulcher, the Wailing Wall and The Temple on the Mount all sit, side by side, uniting the three monotheistic religions by proximity and history. It’s remarkable. We learned so much and felt privileged to have visited such a special place to so many people.
We spent one day floating in the Dead Sea. What a blast. Everyone covers their bodies with the silky mud that is abundant on the bottom of the sea floor. Then – you just float. It’s awesome. You literally could fall asleep just lying there in the water. We loved it.
We flew out of Tel-Aviv and decided that Israel is definitely a “return to” place. There is so much more to see and learn and we look forward to visiting again.
When we walked across the border from Taba, Egypt to Elat, Israel, I have to say, it was incredibly comforting to see the beautiful blue and white Israeli flags flying over the border crossing. We were ready to move on and we knew Israel would be a welcome site. Elat was so much fun. We only spent one night there but it was a total party atmosphere because it was a three day week-end celebrating the anniversary of Israel’s reunification. We walked along the beach, ate falafel (natch) and shopped around on the boardwalk of Niki Beach. The next day we took a bus to Jerusalem and the route took us all along the Dead Sea. Wow. I have never seen such beautiful colors in any body of water as those of the Dead Sea. It was an incredible site and I’m really happy we took the bus so we could experience that part of Israel.
Jerusalem is lovely. The people are peaceful and kind, the city is clean and pretty and. when you’re there it’s hard to imagine that so much political and emotional controversy surrounds this special place. We spent our three days exploring all four quarters of the Old City; the Jewish Quarter, the Armenian Quarter (we love you Lilly) the Muslim Quarter and the Christian Quarter. Contained within the walls of the old city are the very roots of Christian, Muslim and Jewish religions. The Holy Sepulcher, the Wailing Wall and The Temple on the Mount all sit, side by side, uniting the three monotheistic religions by proximity and history. It’s remarkable. We learned so much and felt privileged to have visited such a special place to so many people.
We spent one day floating in the Dead Sea. What a blast. Everyone covers their bodies with the silky mud that is abundant on the bottom of the sea floor. Then – you just float. It’s awesome. You literally could fall asleep just lying there in the water. We loved it.
We flew out of Tel-Aviv and decided that Israel is definitely a “return to” place. There is so much more to see and learn and we look forward to visiting again.
Friday, May 9, 2008
Egypt
I’m writing this blog entry as we cross the eastern part of the Egyptian desert bound for Taba. Matt just turned to me and said “it looks like we’re on Mars!” There is nothing out here but a few stray camels and some electrical towers – a stark contrast to the chaos of Cairo!
Our Egypt story began in Aswan where we boarded a Nile River ferry (floating hotel) for a four day tour of Aswan and Luxor. The first day there, we hopped on a small river boat which took us to the Aswan Botanical Gardens. The gardens, on a small island in the middle of the Nile, are truly remarkable. Every tree from Asia is represented in the garden and it’s green and lush and colorful. Our next stop was the east shore where we rode camels to visit a Nubian village. Riding the camels was definitely a highlight and the girls were loving it! During the “cruise” we visited the High Dam, Kom-Ombo Temple, Edfu Temple, Luxor Temple, Karnak Temple and The Valley of the Kings. To say that one temple was more impressive then another would be misleading because they are all so unique. Each temple, with its own story and presence is completely powerful and majestic in its own way. I think our favorite was Luxor Temple because we were there as the sun was setting and it was magical to see it in the fading light of day. The Valley of the Kings, where 64 tombs have been found to date, was pretty amazing. The Egyptians chose this area for burial because it was quite a distance from the Nile and they knew it would be safe from flooding (little did they know that flooding was the least of their worries for ensuring their kings were safely resting in their afterlife where nobody would disturb them!) The tombs were interesting, and a little sad. These people went to such great lengths to honor their kings with elaborate burials and most of the tombs are stripped of their original belongings and all you really see are the paintings and decorations on the walls leading to the burial chambers. The valley is beautiful and far enough away from Luxor to not be affected by Luxor’s nasty pollution.
After spending one more night in Luxor, we flew back to Cairo to see the pyramids and visit the Egyptian Museum. Cairo is insane. It’s the most densely populated city we’ve been to yet and the traffic and pollution are just gross. The pyramids of Giza are simply alien. We spent a couple of hours walking around each pyramid and, of course, the sphinx, and we had to stop and pinch ourselves a few times because we couldn’t believe what we were seeing. The Egyptian Museum is surprisingly old-fashioned and funky! The collection there is outstanding, but the displays and placards are more like those you might find in some nutty archaeologists home office! Actually, because of this, it’s quite charming and kind of a fun way to enjoy all these ancient treasures. We were very pleased with our time spent there.
I write this blog with mixed emotions because there were so many incredibly distasteful aspects of traveling in Egypt. The unpleasant experiences don’t even deserve attention in this blog because these memories are, ultimately, for the girls, and to harbor on the negative would be tedious. I will say that I have never been more in touch with my “Mama Lioness protecting her cubs” then I was in Egypt. And as far as Matt was concerned, I think I even heard him roar a few times. He was awesome and we were, and are, so incredibly proud of, and comforted by, the way he took care of us. The man has cajones!
We were happy to leave Egypt and the sight of Israeli flags flying over the border crossing was so welcoming. Egypt was an experience we’re happy we had together as a family, but sadly, I doubt that any of us will ever return.
I’m writing this blog entry as we cross the eastern part of the Egyptian desert bound for Taba. Matt just turned to me and said “it looks like we’re on Mars!” There is nothing out here but a few stray camels and some electrical towers – a stark contrast to the chaos of Cairo!
Our Egypt story began in Aswan where we boarded a Nile River ferry (floating hotel) for a four day tour of Aswan and Luxor. The first day there, we hopped on a small river boat which took us to the Aswan Botanical Gardens. The gardens, on a small island in the middle of the Nile, are truly remarkable. Every tree from Asia is represented in the garden and it’s green and lush and colorful. Our next stop was the east shore where we rode camels to visit a Nubian village. Riding the camels was definitely a highlight and the girls were loving it! During the “cruise” we visited the High Dam, Kom-Ombo Temple, Edfu Temple, Luxor Temple, Karnak Temple and The Valley of the Kings. To say that one temple was more impressive then another would be misleading because they are all so unique. Each temple, with its own story and presence is completely powerful and majestic in its own way. I think our favorite was Luxor Temple because we were there as the sun was setting and it was magical to see it in the fading light of day. The Valley of the Kings, where 64 tombs have been found to date, was pretty amazing. The Egyptians chose this area for burial because it was quite a distance from the Nile and they knew it would be safe from flooding (little did they know that flooding was the least of their worries for ensuring their kings were safely resting in their afterlife where nobody would disturb them!) The tombs were interesting, and a little sad. These people went to such great lengths to honor their kings with elaborate burials and most of the tombs are stripped of their original belongings and all you really see are the paintings and decorations on the walls leading to the burial chambers. The valley is beautiful and far enough away from Luxor to not be affected by Luxor’s nasty pollution.
After spending one more night in Luxor, we flew back to Cairo to see the pyramids and visit the Egyptian Museum. Cairo is insane. It’s the most densely populated city we’ve been to yet and the traffic and pollution are just gross. The pyramids of Giza are simply alien. We spent a couple of hours walking around each pyramid and, of course, the sphinx, and we had to stop and pinch ourselves a few times because we couldn’t believe what we were seeing. The Egyptian Museum is surprisingly old-fashioned and funky! The collection there is outstanding, but the displays and placards are more like those you might find in some nutty archaeologists home office! Actually, because of this, it’s quite charming and kind of a fun way to enjoy all these ancient treasures. We were very pleased with our time spent there.
I write this blog with mixed emotions because there were so many incredibly distasteful aspects of traveling in Egypt. The unpleasant experiences don’t even deserve attention in this blog because these memories are, ultimately, for the girls, and to harbor on the negative would be tedious. I will say that I have never been more in touch with my “Mama Lioness protecting her cubs” then I was in Egypt. And as far as Matt was concerned, I think I even heard him roar a few times. He was awesome and we were, and are, so incredibly proud of, and comforted by, the way he took care of us. The man has cajones!
We were happy to leave Egypt and the sight of Israeli flags flying over the border crossing was so welcoming. Egypt was an experience we’re happy we had together as a family, but sadly, I doubt that any of us will ever return.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Istanbul & Izmir, Turkey
Istanbul was filled with good times, lots of laugh and some really memorable travel experiences as a family. We arrived late and night and were driven to the old section of town where our hotel was located. We were only a few blocks from Aya Sofya and Sultan Ahmet (the Blue Mosque). It was a really cool neighborhood and everything was within walking distance. The first day we hired a tour guide and, along with one other kind gentleman from Singapore, we set for a really great day. We visited several important historical sights (the Hippodrome) in the old town, but most impressive was Sultan Ahmet. The girls and I had read about, and studied, the importance of this mosque during their 7th grade social studies classes, so to actually see it in person was so memorable. The mosque is absolutely breathtaking. The massive dome ceilings are covered with intricately designed tiles of every color, including the cobalt blue tiles that are inherent to this region of Turkey. This is the first non-Christian church we’ve visited on this trip and I was fascinated with the process of prayer and worship of the Muslims and especially how it affects the inner design of the mosque. It’s really quite powerful and beautiful. We next visited Aya Sofya, which started off as a Christian church, was converted to a mosque and is now a museum. It’s history is fascinating, but the structure feels like a building in transition – like it doesn’t quite know what it is anymore! We ended the day at Topkapi Palace, which is the Sultan’s palace, grounds and museum. Our favorite part was the Sultan’s kitchen where the Head Chef was responsible for preparing 2,000 meals, three times a day! At the end of the day, we were driving back to the hotel and the muezzin began the evening call to prayer. We all fell silent and just looked at each other and smiled. Again, we had read about this in books, but to actually hear the call in person is mesmerizing.
Our overnight to Izmir was with one intention – to visit the great city of ancient Ephesus. We were pleasantly surprised to learn that our private tour guide was an archaeologist from Turkey. He actually worked on several excavations at Ephesus, and everyone there knew him like an old friend. He was so informational and he really brought Ephesus to life for us. We were amazed to learn how sophisticated, organized and modern their lives were. Matt and I were particularly impressed with the three mile promenade that leads from the city to the port. It was paved in stone, lined with columns and flanked by high-end shops like jewelers, sculpturers, shoes makers and clothiers. To top it all off, many businesses had advertisements in the form of stone tablets with messages about “2 for 1 deals!” We couldn’t believe it! We had lunch at a little nomadic village that makes Turkish rugs, their own silk and has an organic farm. The girls got to try their hand at rug making and later in the day, Matt got to throw a pot at the Ephesus Ceramic Shop! We also visited Mary’s House, which is where the Mother Mary lived her last days after fleeing Jerusalem. Pretty wild. A lot to think about there. Ephesus was awesome!
We flew back to Istanbul where we continued to have fun. We decided to experience a family style Turkish bath and the memory will forever go down as one our best travel moments! The Suleymaniye Hamam (Turkish bath) was built by the great architect Sinan (his work rivals that of Michelangelo) and it was a beautiful building built in 1550. After changing into cotton bikini tops and shorts (no bikini top for Matt) we were lead into the warm steam area where we laid down on a huge marble slab and just relaxed for about 45 minutes. The temperature was perfect – enough to make you sweat and feel warm, but not too hot. Eventually a man comes and gets you in pairs and leads you to a small area for cool rinsing, hair shampooing and massage. The massage starts off by covering your body with the most amazing moisturizing bubbles – it’s indescribable. The bath ends with another rinse, a little more warming in the steam room, wrapping in dry towels and a Turkish tea. You have to try this, it’s heavenly!
The Grand Bazaar is a trip! It’s packed with 4,000 shops and I must admit, there are some really cool things there. In fact – I made a connection with a store owner there and am anxious to get home to start my new business! I have my company name, logo and idea in motion as we travel. Stay tuned.
We ate kebap and simits, we drank apple and Turkish tea, we smoked an apple Hookah pipe, we took care of business at the post office and Turkish laundry, and we generally fell in love with the Turkish people. It’s likely we’ll all return to Turkey - probably sooner then later.
Istanbul was filled with good times, lots of laugh and some really memorable travel experiences as a family. We arrived late and night and were driven to the old section of town where our hotel was located. We were only a few blocks from Aya Sofya and Sultan Ahmet (the Blue Mosque). It was a really cool neighborhood and everything was within walking distance. The first day we hired a tour guide and, along with one other kind gentleman from Singapore, we set for a really great day. We visited several important historical sights (the Hippodrome) in the old town, but most impressive was Sultan Ahmet. The girls and I had read about, and studied, the importance of this mosque during their 7th grade social studies classes, so to actually see it in person was so memorable. The mosque is absolutely breathtaking. The massive dome ceilings are covered with intricately designed tiles of every color, including the cobalt blue tiles that are inherent to this region of Turkey. This is the first non-Christian church we’ve visited on this trip and I was fascinated with the process of prayer and worship of the Muslims and especially how it affects the inner design of the mosque. It’s really quite powerful and beautiful. We next visited Aya Sofya, which started off as a Christian church, was converted to a mosque and is now a museum. It’s history is fascinating, but the structure feels like a building in transition – like it doesn’t quite know what it is anymore! We ended the day at Topkapi Palace, which is the Sultan’s palace, grounds and museum. Our favorite part was the Sultan’s kitchen where the Head Chef was responsible for preparing 2,000 meals, three times a day! At the end of the day, we were driving back to the hotel and the muezzin began the evening call to prayer. We all fell silent and just looked at each other and smiled. Again, we had read about this in books, but to actually hear the call in person is mesmerizing.
Our overnight to Izmir was with one intention – to visit the great city of ancient Ephesus. We were pleasantly surprised to learn that our private tour guide was an archaeologist from Turkey. He actually worked on several excavations at Ephesus, and everyone there knew him like an old friend. He was so informational and he really brought Ephesus to life for us. We were amazed to learn how sophisticated, organized and modern their lives were. Matt and I were particularly impressed with the three mile promenade that leads from the city to the port. It was paved in stone, lined with columns and flanked by high-end shops like jewelers, sculpturers, shoes makers and clothiers. To top it all off, many businesses had advertisements in the form of stone tablets with messages about “2 for 1 deals!” We couldn’t believe it! We had lunch at a little nomadic village that makes Turkish rugs, their own silk and has an organic farm. The girls got to try their hand at rug making and later in the day, Matt got to throw a pot at the Ephesus Ceramic Shop! We also visited Mary’s House, which is where the Mother Mary lived her last days after fleeing Jerusalem. Pretty wild. A lot to think about there. Ephesus was awesome!
We flew back to Istanbul where we continued to have fun. We decided to experience a family style Turkish bath and the memory will forever go down as one our best travel moments! The Suleymaniye Hamam (Turkish bath) was built by the great architect Sinan (his work rivals that of Michelangelo) and it was a beautiful building built in 1550. After changing into cotton bikini tops and shorts (no bikini top for Matt) we were lead into the warm steam area where we laid down on a huge marble slab and just relaxed for about 45 minutes. The temperature was perfect – enough to make you sweat and feel warm, but not too hot. Eventually a man comes and gets you in pairs and leads you to a small area for cool rinsing, hair shampooing and massage. The massage starts off by covering your body with the most amazing moisturizing bubbles – it’s indescribable. The bath ends with another rinse, a little more warming in the steam room, wrapping in dry towels and a Turkish tea. You have to try this, it’s heavenly!
The Grand Bazaar is a trip! It’s packed with 4,000 shops and I must admit, there are some really cool things there. In fact – I made a connection with a store owner there and am anxious to get home to start my new business! I have my company name, logo and idea in motion as we travel. Stay tuned.
We ate kebap and simits, we drank apple and Turkish tea, we smoked an apple Hookah pipe, we took care of business at the post office and Turkish laundry, and we generally fell in love with the Turkish people. It’s likely we’ll all return to Turkey - probably sooner then later.
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Athens
I was so taken with Santorini that I completely forgot to blog about Athens. We were only there for three days and I have to say - I didn’t love it. We all enjoyed visiting the Acropolis and the Temple of Zeus, but the city itself is no Grecian beauty. In fact, it’s quite homely! Aside from an older, quaint area of the city called Paka, Athens was a disappointment. The city was designed for one million people and today has a population of close to four million. The beige four-story apartment complexes that seem to completely dominate the entire city are just plain sad. Athens feels like a city that sprung up without much thought or planning. I was happy we stopped off, but would not make an effort to return, when there are so many other beautiful cities to spend your time in. The people were lovely, we had two fantastic meals at a restaurant called Memphis, and I’m sure there are some incredible places to visit outside the city, but we were all ready to move on to Santorini. That’s all!
I was so taken with Santorini that I completely forgot to blog about Athens. We were only there for three days and I have to say - I didn’t love it. We all enjoyed visiting the Acropolis and the Temple of Zeus, but the city itself is no Grecian beauty. In fact, it’s quite homely! Aside from an older, quaint area of the city called Paka, Athens was a disappointment. The city was designed for one million people and today has a population of close to four million. The beige four-story apartment complexes that seem to completely dominate the entire city are just plain sad. Athens feels like a city that sprung up without much thought or planning. I was happy we stopped off, but would not make an effort to return, when there are so many other beautiful cities to spend your time in. The people were lovely, we had two fantastic meals at a restaurant called Memphis, and I’m sure there are some incredible places to visit outside the city, but we were all ready to move on to Santorini. That’s all!
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Santorini, Greece
If ever there was a postcard that came to life, it has to be those of the island of Santorini. Everything about our six day stay has been idyllic, serene and incredibly picturesque. As I write this blog, I am looking out across the white tile floor that leads to the Greek blue double wood doors that open to our patio. Alex and Madeleine are playing with the local kitties and beyond them stretch forever views of the Aegean Sea and the other side of the island. The dramatic cliffs across the way are roofed with clusters of snowy white villages, accented with the bright blue domes of the Greek Orthodox churches. It’s spectacular.
Since we arrived in Oia, we have been extremely content to fill our days surveying the daily routine of the people who live and work here. Our patio gives us the perfect opportunity to play the voyeuristic role of an outside observer. At 9:30am, the Greek woman who owns the hotel across the way, stands on her patio with her hand on her hips and gives her daily instruction to her two faithful workers. At 10:00am, the wooden Greek fishing boat comes into Armeni Harbor to pick up passengers for a tour of the caldera. At precisely 11:00am, three Greek cowboys wrangle their twelve jingling donkeys down the 280 stone steps that lead to the beach below. They will return to the village at 5:30pm, after having spent the day hauling weary tourists up and down the steep hill. At 6:00pm, the Greek Orthodox Church begins its nightly mass and the sounds of the Father singing his prayers waft through the entire village. The evenings are peaceful and when the sun sets on Armoudi Harbor, a whole new palette emerges and the cliffs of Santorini sparkle with warm golden lights.
We’ve spent our mornings walking the village buying tomatoes from one vendor, Greek olives and feta from another, and whatever else we could find for the day. The girls would feed the cats daily and quickly assigned names to match personalities – Luna, Panther, Molly, Scratchy, Shiloh, Tony Cajones, Spot, Lucy and Wiley! After reading, napping, sunning and noshing for a few hours, we would set off to hike the stairs to one of the two beaches. Alex, Matt and I plunged ourselves into the Aegean Sea on one of the hikes and it was icy cold! At night we’d cook, or grab a bite in town, then crash in our little sanctuary.
Our days were enhanced with the presence of our neighbors, Jim and Shell Warfield. Jim’s an emeritus professor of architecture from University of Illinois and he was in Santorini teaching a class to about 14 students. They were a delight to get to know and very interesting travelers. We had some good talks and might actually get to see them again when we’re in Shanghai in July. They left a day earlier then us and the “neighborhood” wasn’t the same without them!
We rented a car and spent the day driving around the entire island on our last full day. We stopped at three Greek Orthodox churches that were so incredibly beautiful. The last one was freshly painted for Easter and it was the most pristine vision I have ever seen. We ended the day at Armoudi Beach, famous for its fresh fish taverns. We chose our live fish and within 15 minutes, it was on plates on our table – it was wonderful.
We are leaving Santorini just before the mad crush of travelers show up for Easter and the four month holiday season that follows. The village has been scrubbed, stocked, trimmed and painted and have been the beneficiaries of the performance without the crowds. Another unplanned moment of perfection on this remarkable journey.
If ever there was a postcard that came to life, it has to be those of the island of Santorini. Everything about our six day stay has been idyllic, serene and incredibly picturesque. As I write this blog, I am looking out across the white tile floor that leads to the Greek blue double wood doors that open to our patio. Alex and Madeleine are playing with the local kitties and beyond them stretch forever views of the Aegean Sea and the other side of the island. The dramatic cliffs across the way are roofed with clusters of snowy white villages, accented with the bright blue domes of the Greek Orthodox churches. It’s spectacular.
Since we arrived in Oia, we have been extremely content to fill our days surveying the daily routine of the people who live and work here. Our patio gives us the perfect opportunity to play the voyeuristic role of an outside observer. At 9:30am, the Greek woman who owns the hotel across the way, stands on her patio with her hand on her hips and gives her daily instruction to her two faithful workers. At 10:00am, the wooden Greek fishing boat comes into Armeni Harbor to pick up passengers for a tour of the caldera. At precisely 11:00am, three Greek cowboys wrangle their twelve jingling donkeys down the 280 stone steps that lead to the beach below. They will return to the village at 5:30pm, after having spent the day hauling weary tourists up and down the steep hill. At 6:00pm, the Greek Orthodox Church begins its nightly mass and the sounds of the Father singing his prayers waft through the entire village. The evenings are peaceful and when the sun sets on Armoudi Harbor, a whole new palette emerges and the cliffs of Santorini sparkle with warm golden lights.
We’ve spent our mornings walking the village buying tomatoes from one vendor, Greek olives and feta from another, and whatever else we could find for the day. The girls would feed the cats daily and quickly assigned names to match personalities – Luna, Panther, Molly, Scratchy, Shiloh, Tony Cajones, Spot, Lucy and Wiley! After reading, napping, sunning and noshing for a few hours, we would set off to hike the stairs to one of the two beaches. Alex, Matt and I plunged ourselves into the Aegean Sea on one of the hikes and it was icy cold! At night we’d cook, or grab a bite in town, then crash in our little sanctuary.
Our days were enhanced with the presence of our neighbors, Jim and Shell Warfield. Jim’s an emeritus professor of architecture from University of Illinois and he was in Santorini teaching a class to about 14 students. They were a delight to get to know and very interesting travelers. We had some good talks and might actually get to see them again when we’re in Shanghai in July. They left a day earlier then us and the “neighborhood” wasn’t the same without them!
We rented a car and spent the day driving around the entire island on our last full day. We stopped at three Greek Orthodox churches that were so incredibly beautiful. The last one was freshly painted for Easter and it was the most pristine vision I have ever seen. We ended the day at Armoudi Beach, famous for its fresh fish taverns. We chose our live fish and within 15 minutes, it was on plates on our table – it was wonderful.
We are leaving Santorini just before the mad crush of travelers show up for Easter and the four month holiday season that follows. The village has been scrubbed, stocked, trimmed and painted and have been the beneficiaries of the performance without the crowds. Another unplanned moment of perfection on this remarkable journey.
Sunday, April 20, 2008
Rome
My heart sank a bit when the train pulled out of Monterosso and headed for Rome. It was difficult to imagine spending four days in a city of 2.7 million people after spending five days with Matteo, Carla, Marco, Anna, Fausto and all the lovely people we met in Cinque Terre. I felt almost disoriented the first night as we walked to Piazza Novona for dinner at a local Roman hang-out. Feeling energized after an authentic Italian dinner, I felt better prepared to welcome Rome and open myself up to the next few days of travel. Our little flat was located right across the way from the Vatican City and I swear I could hear the Pope singing in the shower the next morning.
We decided to spend our first day making the train trip to Pompeii to visit the city ruins. We were all astounded by how much of the city is still intact and the vast area of ground it covers. With Mt. Vesuvius looming in the background, it’s easy to imagine the fear and chaos that must have ensued on that day in 79AD when the volcano erupted. There were very few tourists on the grounds that day and many of the streets and building we walked around were completely empty, except for us. I was able to take some great shots of empty streets, which I have to believe is a rare sight at Pompeii. We were all impressed by the order and sophistication by which these people lived so long ago. The houses were spacious, the baths were decadent and the main area of town offered most of the goods and services we have in today’s modern world. The most impressive thing to me was the rich color that remained on the walls as decoration. I wouldn’t say Pompeii was filled with great painters, but it was obvious that color and décor were an important aspect of their aesthetic world. The cast moldings of bodies frozen in time, the forum, theaters and college, the countless numbers of preserved statues, vases and pottery, the patchwork marble countertops are just some of the gifts Pompeii has to offer. It was a full day, but we were really happy we made the effort because Pompeii is captivating.
The next day, our driver, Alberto, picked us up at 9:00am for a breezy tour of Rome! This was a great call, on Matt’s part, because we were able to efficiently see many of the important sites of Rome with out all the fuss. Alberto took us to The Forum, The Colosseum, The Circus Maximus, The Palatine, Trevi Fountain, The Domus Area, and of course, The Pantheon (the most impressive to me). In addition, Alberto drove us through old neighborhoods and pointed out the few chunks of the original city walls that still remain and gave us some great insight into modern Italian history, from his family’s perspective. It was a day well-spent because we were able to decide which monuments we wanted to re-visit on our own.
The next two days were spent in The Vatican and The Colosseum, both equally impressive in their own ways. I loved, loved, loved walking around The Colosseum. I thought it was fascinating. As I climbed the stairs to the second level of this giant, I could just imagine myself in the days of the Romans. My leather sandals would pad lightly under by loose linen frock as I carried my Big Gulp-size carbonated olive oil drink, my paper cone filled with fried muskrat noses and my poached possum on a stick, to the commoners section to watch the gladiator fights!
I would return to Rome in a heartbeat. There is so much to see and I really like the city!
My heart sank a bit when the train pulled out of Monterosso and headed for Rome. It was difficult to imagine spending four days in a city of 2.7 million people after spending five days with Matteo, Carla, Marco, Anna, Fausto and all the lovely people we met in Cinque Terre. I felt almost disoriented the first night as we walked to Piazza Novona for dinner at a local Roman hang-out. Feeling energized after an authentic Italian dinner, I felt better prepared to welcome Rome and open myself up to the next few days of travel. Our little flat was located right across the way from the Vatican City and I swear I could hear the Pope singing in the shower the next morning.
We decided to spend our first day making the train trip to Pompeii to visit the city ruins. We were all astounded by how much of the city is still intact and the vast area of ground it covers. With Mt. Vesuvius looming in the background, it’s easy to imagine the fear and chaos that must have ensued on that day in 79AD when the volcano erupted. There were very few tourists on the grounds that day and many of the streets and building we walked around were completely empty, except for us. I was able to take some great shots of empty streets, which I have to believe is a rare sight at Pompeii. We were all impressed by the order and sophistication by which these people lived so long ago. The houses were spacious, the baths were decadent and the main area of town offered most of the goods and services we have in today’s modern world. The most impressive thing to me was the rich color that remained on the walls as decoration. I wouldn’t say Pompeii was filled with great painters, but it was obvious that color and décor were an important aspect of their aesthetic world. The cast moldings of bodies frozen in time, the forum, theaters and college, the countless numbers of preserved statues, vases and pottery, the patchwork marble countertops are just some of the gifts Pompeii has to offer. It was a full day, but we were really happy we made the effort because Pompeii is captivating.
The next day, our driver, Alberto, picked us up at 9:00am for a breezy tour of Rome! This was a great call, on Matt’s part, because we were able to efficiently see many of the important sites of Rome with out all the fuss. Alberto took us to The Forum, The Colosseum, The Circus Maximus, The Palatine, Trevi Fountain, The Domus Area, and of course, The Pantheon (the most impressive to me). In addition, Alberto drove us through old neighborhoods and pointed out the few chunks of the original city walls that still remain and gave us some great insight into modern Italian history, from his family’s perspective. It was a day well-spent because we were able to decide which monuments we wanted to re-visit on our own.
The next two days were spent in The Vatican and The Colosseum, both equally impressive in their own ways. I loved, loved, loved walking around The Colosseum. I thought it was fascinating. As I climbed the stairs to the second level of this giant, I could just imagine myself in the days of the Romans. My leather sandals would pad lightly under by loose linen frock as I carried my Big Gulp-size carbonated olive oil drink, my paper cone filled with fried muskrat noses and my poached possum on a stick, to the commoners section to watch the gladiator fights!
I would return to Rome in a heartbeat. There is so much to see and I really like the city!
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Cinque Terre
I’ve been anticipating our stay in Cinque Terre for a long time and, honestly, from everything I had learned about this area, had very high expectations. We were not disappointed. Our five days in this exquisite Italian paradise will remain in our hearts and minds as some of our best travel memories. Each of us has already planned our return!
We chose to make Monterosso al Mare (the northern most of the five cities) our base because we heard it had a nice beach area and it sounded quiet. After visiting all five cities, I really don’t think you could go wrong staying in any one of them, but we immediately fell in love with Monterosso and felt at home. It’s still a very quiet time to be traveling through the Cinque Terre, so the town and hiking trails were all ours. Monterosso is a tiny village, fairly flat, with a beautiful beachfront. We arrived with no reservations, walked through the pedestrian tunnel and stopped at the first hotel where we met Marco. Marco had no rooms available in his hotel, but he called his brother, Matteo, and set us up at Hotel Villa Steno, through town and set up on a pretty hill overlooking the town. Matteo and his wife, Carla, run Villa Steno and it is just beautiful. We had a two room suite with a huge balcony overlooking the town and crashing waves. The property is surrounded by lemon, tangerine and olive trees and ate night there is a steady serenade from hundreds of toads. The limoncino made from lemons picked on the hotel property is so good!
The first days we took off from Monterosso on the hiking trail that connects all five villages. The leg from our town to the next town, Vernazzo, is the most challenging, but the scenery was well worth it and we were thrilled to be back in nature. Along the way, we had incredible views of the next towns, olive groves and terraced hills of vineyards. Vernazzo is a colorful little town with a natural harbor area that is positively perfect. We stopped for some pesto pizza (the ligurian pesto from this area is to die for!) and salad down by the water, then headed back to the trail toward Corniglia.Corniglia sits up on a rocky hill and has a beautiful outlook at the top. By the time we reached Corniglia we had been hiking for about four hours. We decided to train back to Monterosso.
Along the trail we started talking with an American couple, Sussi and Larry, who live in northern Washington. We instantly connected and ultimately ended up sharing two fabulous meals with them. Sussi and Larry are down to earth, bright, and incredibly well-traveled and we just loved spending time with them. The girls were really inspired by their kindness and their travel stories – especially Larry’s stories about shearing sheep in New Zealand and picking tomatoes in Australia! We parted ways on a shared train to La Spezzia, but we have no doubt that we weren’t saying “good-bye”, but rather “until next time!”
On our third day we trained down to Riomaggiorio in the pouring rain! We still had a blast. We ran down to the Marina to have lunch at Dau Cila where Fausto served us great wine and three different types of bruschetta. We took some great photos and ended up talking with another fun couple from Newport Beach who there on sabbatical, painting in Cinque Terre. We decided to skip Manarola and head home to stay dry.
The time we spent wandering around Monterroso was so peaceful. We bought some local olive wood products for our new kitchen, ate at our favorite restaurant, Alta Marea, run by a really sweet couple, Anna and Marco, and walked up and down the beach collecting sea glass for Madeline. Matt and I ran up to the hill to the cemetery and we were the only ones there. We walked around for quite a while, reading family names and looking at photos of those who had passed. The Capuchin monk’s monastery sits below the cemetery, so we popped in just before service began. It was time to go back to the hotel to collect our bags to move on.
The thing about Cinque Terre that made it so special was that we connected with literally everyone we came in contact with. People are happy here – why wouldn’t you be? I felt a little like the main character in the movie Local Hero (you have to watch this movie – a classic). It’s hard not to fall in love with this place and fantasize that maybe someday we’ll be the couple running the Hotel Villa Steno, or some great restaurant or olive oil specialty shop. We can’t wait to return- maybe next time with our bikes!
I’ve been anticipating our stay in Cinque Terre for a long time and, honestly, from everything I had learned about this area, had very high expectations. We were not disappointed. Our five days in this exquisite Italian paradise will remain in our hearts and minds as some of our best travel memories. Each of us has already planned our return!
We chose to make Monterosso al Mare (the northern most of the five cities) our base because we heard it had a nice beach area and it sounded quiet. After visiting all five cities, I really don’t think you could go wrong staying in any one of them, but we immediately fell in love with Monterosso and felt at home. It’s still a very quiet time to be traveling through the Cinque Terre, so the town and hiking trails were all ours. Monterosso is a tiny village, fairly flat, with a beautiful beachfront. We arrived with no reservations, walked through the pedestrian tunnel and stopped at the first hotel where we met Marco. Marco had no rooms available in his hotel, but he called his brother, Matteo, and set us up at Hotel Villa Steno, through town and set up on a pretty hill overlooking the town. Matteo and his wife, Carla, run Villa Steno and it is just beautiful. We had a two room suite with a huge balcony overlooking the town and crashing waves. The property is surrounded by lemon, tangerine and olive trees and ate night there is a steady serenade from hundreds of toads. The limoncino made from lemons picked on the hotel property is so good!
The first days we took off from Monterosso on the hiking trail that connects all five villages. The leg from our town to the next town, Vernazzo, is the most challenging, but the scenery was well worth it and we were thrilled to be back in nature. Along the way, we had incredible views of the next towns, olive groves and terraced hills of vineyards. Vernazzo is a colorful little town with a natural harbor area that is positively perfect. We stopped for some pesto pizza (the ligurian pesto from this area is to die for!) and salad down by the water, then headed back to the trail toward Corniglia.Corniglia sits up on a rocky hill and has a beautiful outlook at the top. By the time we reached Corniglia we had been hiking for about four hours. We decided to train back to Monterosso.
Along the trail we started talking with an American couple, Sussi and Larry, who live in northern Washington. We instantly connected and ultimately ended up sharing two fabulous meals with them. Sussi and Larry are down to earth, bright, and incredibly well-traveled and we just loved spending time with them. The girls were really inspired by their kindness and their travel stories – especially Larry’s stories about shearing sheep in New Zealand and picking tomatoes in Australia! We parted ways on a shared train to La Spezzia, but we have no doubt that we weren’t saying “good-bye”, but rather “until next time!”
On our third day we trained down to Riomaggiorio in the pouring rain! We still had a blast. We ran down to the Marina to have lunch at Dau Cila where Fausto served us great wine and three different types of bruschetta. We took some great photos and ended up talking with another fun couple from Newport Beach who there on sabbatical, painting in Cinque Terre. We decided to skip Manarola and head home to stay dry.
The time we spent wandering around Monterroso was so peaceful. We bought some local olive wood products for our new kitchen, ate at our favorite restaurant, Alta Marea, run by a really sweet couple, Anna and Marco, and walked up and down the beach collecting sea glass for Madeline. Matt and I ran up to the hill to the cemetery and we were the only ones there. We walked around for quite a while, reading family names and looking at photos of those who had passed. The Capuchin monk’s monastery sits below the cemetery, so we popped in just before service began. It was time to go back to the hotel to collect our bags to move on.
The thing about Cinque Terre that made it so special was that we connected with literally everyone we came in contact with. People are happy here – why wouldn’t you be? I felt a little like the main character in the movie Local Hero (you have to watch this movie – a classic). It’s hard not to fall in love with this place and fantasize that maybe someday we’ll be the couple running the Hotel Villa Steno, or some great restaurant or olive oil specialty shop. We can’t wait to return- maybe next time with our bikes!
Saturday, April 12, 2008
Aix en Provence/Monaco/Nice
We left St. Felix and drove along the southern coast of France to Aix en Provence. We only stayed in Aix for 24 hours, but we loved the old town flower and food market, the sophisticated French feel of the locals and the vibrant energy of the younger generation. We walked all over the city, had some good meals, bought some French pottery and headed for our next destination, Monaco.
We were invited to stay in our friend, Gerard Fosalli’s, hotel, the Vista Palace in Monaco. The Vista is one of those landmark hotels in Monaco that sits way up high on a hill and has forever ocean views and gorgeous panoramic views of Monaco. We had not seen Gerard since he left LA five years ago, so we were really happy to get the chance to spend some time with him. He took very good care of us and we had an incredible suite with views, views and more views! We ventured down to the Casino and harbor area one night and WOW – what a scene! The value of the expensive cars parked outside the casino could end world hunger. The money that passes through Monaco, from all over the world, is astronomical. Historically, the country itself is a bit of a phenomenon, but there’s no denying the absolute beauty of the environment. After completely pampering ourselves for three days, we headed to Nice to do some errands!
Nice was another 24-hour quickie just to drop off our rental car, mail some boxes and catch the train to Cinque Terre. We did have the afternoon to walk along the beach and have a really great meal (our best pizza yet), and just mosey around town. The color of the ocean in Nice rivals the waters off the coast of the Yucatan. The ocean is light green, almost white, when it hits the beach, then darkens to a turquoise green that is unreal. The beaches are rocky and it was really windy, but the skies were blue and the sun was bright and we realized that our souls were at peace and it felt like home being close to the ocean again.
We’re really excited about Cinque Terre. We’re staying for four days in Monterosso al Mare and plan to hike the trails and see all five cities of this beautiful region!
We left St. Felix and drove along the southern coast of France to Aix en Provence. We only stayed in Aix for 24 hours, but we loved the old town flower and food market, the sophisticated French feel of the locals and the vibrant energy of the younger generation. We walked all over the city, had some good meals, bought some French pottery and headed for our next destination, Monaco.
We were invited to stay in our friend, Gerard Fosalli’s, hotel, the Vista Palace in Monaco. The Vista is one of those landmark hotels in Monaco that sits way up high on a hill and has forever ocean views and gorgeous panoramic views of Monaco. We had not seen Gerard since he left LA five years ago, so we were really happy to get the chance to spend some time with him. He took very good care of us and we had an incredible suite with views, views and more views! We ventured down to the Casino and harbor area one night and WOW – what a scene! The value of the expensive cars parked outside the casino could end world hunger. The money that passes through Monaco, from all over the world, is astronomical. Historically, the country itself is a bit of a phenomenon, but there’s no denying the absolute beauty of the environment. After completely pampering ourselves for three days, we headed to Nice to do some errands!
Nice was another 24-hour quickie just to drop off our rental car, mail some boxes and catch the train to Cinque Terre. We did have the afternoon to walk along the beach and have a really great meal (our best pizza yet), and just mosey around town. The color of the ocean in Nice rivals the waters off the coast of the Yucatan. The ocean is light green, almost white, when it hits the beach, then darkens to a turquoise green that is unreal. The beaches are rocky and it was really windy, but the skies were blue and the sun was bright and we realized that our souls were at peace and it felt like home being close to the ocean again.
We’re really excited about Cinque Terre. We’re staying for four days in Monterosso al Mare and plan to hike the trails and see all five cities of this beautiful region!
Sunday, April 6, 2008
St. Felix-Lauragais
I’m sitting at an old French farm table in the kitchen of the most charming cottage I could have ever imagined. The white candles are lit on the table, the girls are listening to the Beatles in the other room and Matt is, again, cooking us a fabulous dinner with fresh food he picked up at the market today. Life came together when we arrived in St. Felix, a very tiny town in the south of France, half-way between Toulouse and Carcassonne. St. Felix is a heavenly little town perched atop a hill, accented by a beautiful old cathedral and surrounded by green fields of grass that have finally given me the true meaning of green. There is a country path, a two mile loop, which takes you out of town, down a grassy road specked with little white flowers and up to a ridge that has a panoramic view of St. Felix on the left and an infinite view of French countryside on the right. The four of us walked the loop yesterday and we were thoroughly consumed with the scenery. This is the kind of place that you might read about in a great novel or poem, but never expect that it might actually exist. St. Felix is bucolic and all four of us have been immediately captured by its simplicity, beauty and French country pace.
We are staying at the cottage for five days. We are doing nothing! The girls spend their days playing with the kitty in the backyard, making fairy houses, watching the Aristocats in French, helping Daddy cook and taking pictures. Matt and I are soaking up the chance to move around in the lovely surroundings so we run, hike and kiss a lot. After traveling for two months and visiting some of the most important sites, museums and monuments in Europe, we are relishing our time to chill and do nothing. Alex has befriended Madame Chicco, a sweet, local woman who watches after the cottage. They speak in French and English and neither understands the other, but they have become fast friends. We are definitely loving the chance to cook, drink tea, play cards, be silly and relaxed, and away from the daily bustle of life with people.
Last night, at about 9:00, we decided to venture out from the cottage for something to eat. We drove to the small town of Revel and had a nice meal and a good time with the friendly local people. Everyone is so kind and we feel so welcomed as travelers. Today we’re leaving St. Felix and I think if we took a family poll, everyone would vote to stay a little longer, but we have hotel plans at Aix au Provence and two nights in Monaco at our friend, Gerard Fossali’s hotel, The Vista. We are renewed, reenergized and forever humbled and enhanced by our trip to St. Felix. We send a warm thank you to Lisa and David for sharing their cottage, and lovely town with us! St. Felix is at the top of our “Return To…” list.
Off to Provence, Monaco and then to Cinque Terra, Italy. Life is good.
p.s. Check out Alex’s photos from St. Felix on the Picasa link. They are so creative and beautiful and she really captures the sprit of the entire experience.
I’m sitting at an old French farm table in the kitchen of the most charming cottage I could have ever imagined. The white candles are lit on the table, the girls are listening to the Beatles in the other room and Matt is, again, cooking us a fabulous dinner with fresh food he picked up at the market today. Life came together when we arrived in St. Felix, a very tiny town in the south of France, half-way between Toulouse and Carcassonne. St. Felix is a heavenly little town perched atop a hill, accented by a beautiful old cathedral and surrounded by green fields of grass that have finally given me the true meaning of green. There is a country path, a two mile loop, which takes you out of town, down a grassy road specked with little white flowers and up to a ridge that has a panoramic view of St. Felix on the left and an infinite view of French countryside on the right. The four of us walked the loop yesterday and we were thoroughly consumed with the scenery. This is the kind of place that you might read about in a great novel or poem, but never expect that it might actually exist. St. Felix is bucolic and all four of us have been immediately captured by its simplicity, beauty and French country pace.
We are staying at the cottage for five days. We are doing nothing! The girls spend their days playing with the kitty in the backyard, making fairy houses, watching the Aristocats in French, helping Daddy cook and taking pictures. Matt and I are soaking up the chance to move around in the lovely surroundings so we run, hike and kiss a lot. After traveling for two months and visiting some of the most important sites, museums and monuments in Europe, we are relishing our time to chill and do nothing. Alex has befriended Madame Chicco, a sweet, local woman who watches after the cottage. They speak in French and English and neither understands the other, but they have become fast friends. We are definitely loving the chance to cook, drink tea, play cards, be silly and relaxed, and away from the daily bustle of life with people.
Last night, at about 9:00, we decided to venture out from the cottage for something to eat. We drove to the small town of Revel and had a nice meal and a good time with the friendly local people. Everyone is so kind and we feel so welcomed as travelers. Today we’re leaving St. Felix and I think if we took a family poll, everyone would vote to stay a little longer, but we have hotel plans at Aix au Provence and two nights in Monaco at our friend, Gerard Fossali’s hotel, The Vista. We are renewed, reenergized and forever humbled and enhanced by our trip to St. Felix. We send a warm thank you to Lisa and David for sharing their cottage, and lovely town with us! St. Felix is at the top of our “Return To…” list.
Off to Provence, Monaco and then to Cinque Terra, Italy. Life is good.
p.s. Check out Alex’s photos from St. Felix on the Picasa link. They are so creative and beautiful and she really captures the sprit of the entire experience.
Saturday, April 5, 2008
Toledo/Barcelona – Spain
As a family, for obvious reasons, we have anticipated traveling to Toledo, Spain for a long time. After an overnight train from Paris to Madrid and a quick train ride to Toledo, we finally arrived in our namesake city. It was lovely… until the food borne illness set in! Something in Toledo didn’t agree with the Toledo’s. We made a valiant effort to enjoy Toledo as much as we were capable of. There are few pictures (none of Flat Laird), we bought not one “Toledo” souvenir, and basically Toledo wasn’t as pleasant as we had hoped. All I can say is “I love our travel doctor” and “Thank goodness for Cipro!”
Toledo is actually quite interesting - built atop a rock (like every other city in Europe that wanted to defend itself from Roman conquest) and has a winding river, the Rio Tajo, that wraps around its edges. Every aspect of the old city still remains. To look at the city from across the river, you see an impressive cathedral, called The Cathedral, and a very monochromatic landscape of houses, bridge crossings and castles. We took an hour long open train ride around the entire city and we really enjoyed that – especially since we were sitting down. We stayed in a very charming hotel called the Hotel El Greco and walking around the town was really a unique experience. We got the feeling that life is, and always has been, good in Toledo. The elders of the town look healthy and well groomed and very happy to remain on their little “island” of Toledo. We were definitely on the mend as we headed to the train for Barcelona!
Barcelona was a nice surprise for all of us. I actually expected Barcelona to be a much smaller, quieter, beach town. It’s not! It’s a big city with lots to see and lots of people. Once we figured out what we wanted to see, we were pleased with our visit there. Our hotel was perfectly located on Calle Princesa, and there was a great Udon noodle shop downstairs that we ate at twice for “healing food”. Yummy. We also happened upon another Maoz falafel shop, which made us very happy. The first thing we did was took the kids to the Aquarium at the wharf. It wasn’t exactly what Matt and I wanted to do, but we sensed the kids needed a “kids” day, so we went. It was fine, and they loved it. We also took another Fat Tire Bike trip around Barcelona with one of Mike Franz’s’ friends, J.J. The tour was fun, but not at all like the great time we had with Mike in Paris. Some of the best moments in Barcelona came on our last full day when we were walking down to the metro to go to the Park Guell. We happened to turn down one of the old town streets and we came across the Parade of the Gigantes! It was so cool. About 50 giant (maybe twelve feet high) puppets, made up like Spain’s kings and queens and other various characters, came parading by us. We stopped and laughed and took a slew of pictures and marveled, again, at our timing. The Park Guell was truly a sight. Decorative, organic design at it’s best. Really magical and fun to explore. Gaudi’s cathedral is an impressive undertaking that, to date, still is nowhere near being completed. Gaudi’s cathedral reminds me of wet sand dropping sculptures. The architecture is unlike anything I have ever seen and I can see why Spain has a love/hate relationship with Gaudi (though he has been dead since the 20’s).
I would return to Barcelona, but with different expectations. I really can’t imagine the city in the dead of summer with the heat and the packed beaches (which are incredibly disappointing) and all the tourists. It’s feels like a city that doesn’t exactly love its tourists. Speaking fluent Spanish is hardly an asset. In fact, most of the service people look at you like you are speaking Japanese instead of a language that somewhat resembles theirs! That’s o.k. We kept smiling and making our way around and really did enjoy Barcelona!
As a family, for obvious reasons, we have anticipated traveling to Toledo, Spain for a long time. After an overnight train from Paris to Madrid and a quick train ride to Toledo, we finally arrived in our namesake city. It was lovely… until the food borne illness set in! Something in Toledo didn’t agree with the Toledo’s. We made a valiant effort to enjoy Toledo as much as we were capable of. There are few pictures (none of Flat Laird), we bought not one “Toledo” souvenir, and basically Toledo wasn’t as pleasant as we had hoped. All I can say is “I love our travel doctor” and “Thank goodness for Cipro!”
Toledo is actually quite interesting - built atop a rock (like every other city in Europe that wanted to defend itself from Roman conquest) and has a winding river, the Rio Tajo, that wraps around its edges. Every aspect of the old city still remains. To look at the city from across the river, you see an impressive cathedral, called The Cathedral, and a very monochromatic landscape of houses, bridge crossings and castles. We took an hour long open train ride around the entire city and we really enjoyed that – especially since we were sitting down. We stayed in a very charming hotel called the Hotel El Greco and walking around the town was really a unique experience. We got the feeling that life is, and always has been, good in Toledo. The elders of the town look healthy and well groomed and very happy to remain on their little “island” of Toledo. We were definitely on the mend as we headed to the train for Barcelona!
Barcelona was a nice surprise for all of us. I actually expected Barcelona to be a much smaller, quieter, beach town. It’s not! It’s a big city with lots to see and lots of people. Once we figured out what we wanted to see, we were pleased with our visit there. Our hotel was perfectly located on Calle Princesa, and there was a great Udon noodle shop downstairs that we ate at twice for “healing food”. Yummy. We also happened upon another Maoz falafel shop, which made us very happy. The first thing we did was took the kids to the Aquarium at the wharf. It wasn’t exactly what Matt and I wanted to do, but we sensed the kids needed a “kids” day, so we went. It was fine, and they loved it. We also took another Fat Tire Bike trip around Barcelona with one of Mike Franz’s’ friends, J.J. The tour was fun, but not at all like the great time we had with Mike in Paris. Some of the best moments in Barcelona came on our last full day when we were walking down to the metro to go to the Park Guell. We happened to turn down one of the old town streets and we came across the Parade of the Gigantes! It was so cool. About 50 giant (maybe twelve feet high) puppets, made up like Spain’s kings and queens and other various characters, came parading by us. We stopped and laughed and took a slew of pictures and marveled, again, at our timing. The Park Guell was truly a sight. Decorative, organic design at it’s best. Really magical and fun to explore. Gaudi’s cathedral is an impressive undertaking that, to date, still is nowhere near being completed. Gaudi’s cathedral reminds me of wet sand dropping sculptures. The architecture is unlike anything I have ever seen and I can see why Spain has a love/hate relationship with Gaudi (though he has been dead since the 20’s).
I would return to Barcelona, but with different expectations. I really can’t imagine the city in the dead of summer with the heat and the packed beaches (which are incredibly disappointing) and all the tourists. It’s feels like a city that doesn’t exactly love its tourists. Speaking fluent Spanish is hardly an asset. In fact, most of the service people look at you like you are speaking Japanese instead of a language that somewhat resembles theirs! That’s o.k. We kept smiling and making our way around and really did enjoy Barcelona!
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Paris
We had six terrific days in Paris – a city we each have special memories of. Matt and I spent our honeymoon there 18 years ago, and then we took the girls for the first time in 2004. We stayed in the 6th Arrondissement in a really nice hotel called Hotel Tourville which is very close to the Eiffel Tower. Every morning Matt and I would walk to Rue Cler for a morning coffee and then scour the street for fresh fruit, breads, yogurt, hot latkes and other goodies for our morning breakfast in our room. We became familiar with the local food merchants and in particular, one lovely elderly French woman who was convinced Matt was a famous actor (not the first time this has happened while traveling). She didn’t speak a word of English and our French is limited, at best, but on the second morning coffee meeting she decided to sit down with us and have a fifteen minute conversation that neither of us understood, but both of us enjoyed immensely! She made quite an impression on us and will remain as another fond memory of Paris.
We kept ourselves busy visiting the Pompidou (the girl’s very favorite museum), Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, the Champs de Mars, The Louvre, Palais Royal and Napoleon’s Tomb and Tuileries Gardens. I have a really good friend, Cathy Franz, and her son, Mike, runs a bike tour company in Paris called Fat Tire Bikes. We took a three hour tour around Paris on one of Mike’s tours and we had so much fun. The girls LOVED it! Mike was funny and well-informed and he kept us interested and entertained. We later took him out to dinner at a really cool restaurant called Le Coup Shou. Mike is a smart, personable, really great guy and we enjoyed our time with him so much.
The weather was a bit chilly and we even had a few brief hail storms, but they always seemed to happen when we were tucked away in some sidewalk café, or in our hotel room. The clouds broke and the sky was burning blue the day we decided to walk through Rodin’s Garden. The gardens are just beautiful and it’s a magical setting to view some of Rodin’s most famous sculptures. On Mike’s recommendation, we decided to visit the Jewish section of Paris, Rue Rosarie. What a hoot. There is clearly a different energy pulsating in this section of town and we just soaked it up. We stopped for incredible falafels (our favorite lunch) and just walked around and did nothing!
Madeline, the other chef in the family, expressed interest in visiting Le Cordon Bleu in Paris while we were there. We walked from our hotel all the way to the cooking school with hopes that we might get to participate in a class or tour, but no such luck. The school was actually closed for spring break. I think Madeline was really taken with the whole idea of the school and it wasn’t a total loss – we bought a few gifts and I took her picture out on the street in front of the Le Cordon Bleu sign. She was pretty jazzed!
Some people think Parisian are snooty and rude and that has never been our experience. I think Parisians are incredibly proud and devoted to their country. There is symmetry to the city that is clearly visible in the way important monuments are lined up with each other, the way the gardens are trimmed and groomed to perfection and even in the way the morning markets are set up so beautifully. There is no doubt that Paris has earned its reputation as “The Most Beautiful City in the World!”
Off to Toledo (that should be a good time)
Lisa, Matt and girls
We had six terrific days in Paris – a city we each have special memories of. Matt and I spent our honeymoon there 18 years ago, and then we took the girls for the first time in 2004. We stayed in the 6th Arrondissement in a really nice hotel called Hotel Tourville which is very close to the Eiffel Tower. Every morning Matt and I would walk to Rue Cler for a morning coffee and then scour the street for fresh fruit, breads, yogurt, hot latkes and other goodies for our morning breakfast in our room. We became familiar with the local food merchants and in particular, one lovely elderly French woman who was convinced Matt was a famous actor (not the first time this has happened while traveling). She didn’t speak a word of English and our French is limited, at best, but on the second morning coffee meeting she decided to sit down with us and have a fifteen minute conversation that neither of us understood, but both of us enjoyed immensely! She made quite an impression on us and will remain as another fond memory of Paris.
We kept ourselves busy visiting the Pompidou (the girl’s very favorite museum), Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, the Champs de Mars, The Louvre, Palais Royal and Napoleon’s Tomb and Tuileries Gardens. I have a really good friend, Cathy Franz, and her son, Mike, runs a bike tour company in Paris called Fat Tire Bikes. We took a three hour tour around Paris on one of Mike’s tours and we had so much fun. The girls LOVED it! Mike was funny and well-informed and he kept us interested and entertained. We later took him out to dinner at a really cool restaurant called Le Coup Shou. Mike is a smart, personable, really great guy and we enjoyed our time with him so much.
The weather was a bit chilly and we even had a few brief hail storms, but they always seemed to happen when we were tucked away in some sidewalk café, or in our hotel room. The clouds broke and the sky was burning blue the day we decided to walk through Rodin’s Garden. The gardens are just beautiful and it’s a magical setting to view some of Rodin’s most famous sculptures. On Mike’s recommendation, we decided to visit the Jewish section of Paris, Rue Rosarie. What a hoot. There is clearly a different energy pulsating in this section of town and we just soaked it up. We stopped for incredible falafels (our favorite lunch) and just walked around and did nothing!
Madeline, the other chef in the family, expressed interest in visiting Le Cordon Bleu in Paris while we were there. We walked from our hotel all the way to the cooking school with hopes that we might get to participate in a class or tour, but no such luck. The school was actually closed for spring break. I think Madeline was really taken with the whole idea of the school and it wasn’t a total loss – we bought a few gifts and I took her picture out on the street in front of the Le Cordon Bleu sign. She was pretty jazzed!
Some people think Parisian are snooty and rude and that has never been our experience. I think Parisians are incredibly proud and devoted to their country. There is symmetry to the city that is clearly visible in the way important monuments are lined up with each other, the way the gardens are trimmed and groomed to perfection and even in the way the morning markets are set up so beautifully. There is no doubt that Paris has earned its reputation as “The Most Beautiful City in the World!”
Off to Toledo (that should be a good time)
Lisa, Matt and girls
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Milano!
I love being in Italy. The train to Milan from Bern passed through the Lake Como region, which was a beautiful sight, and we all smiled knowing we were back in Italy again. The cab ride from the train station to the hotel gave me no indication of what was in store for us in this incredible city. We got settled into our somewhat funky, but somewhat cool hotel (we liked it better after we realized our surroundings)! One of the first questions we usually ask when we arrive at a new hotel is “how do we arrange our internet service?” Our very sweet Italian bell boy, Lucca, says “ youa wanta internet? Yes, yes, it’sa free here . . . youa justa givea me youra credit card number, anda thena it’s all free.” And that’s the way it was in Milan – everything free – just after you give them your credit card number!
The first night we just walked around the Duomo and took in the people (the pickpocketers move through the crowds like sharks!), ate dinner at a sidewalk café and, of course, treated ourselves to gelato (it really does taste better in Italy). On Sunday we got really lucky and found four tickets on a tour which would take us to see the DaVinci’s Last Supper (the main reason we came to Milan). It’s not easy to get a ticket, even in the off season, and the best way is to join a tour, so we were really happy. After Madeline’s experience in her History class with Mr. Bream, she was determined to see this work of art. The tour took us to the Milan Castle, a classic Italian castle with gorgeous grounds, to the Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Gothic church which houses the refectory with the Last Supper, the La Scala Opera House, and back through the Duomo to the Piazza. We had an awesome tour guide because she was so passionate about the history and information she was sharing with us. The fifteen minutes we got to spend viewing the Last Supper was extraordinary. Madeline was really taken with being in the presence of this special art work. It’s pretty amazing that so much of the piece was preserved while the rest of the refectory was almost entirely destroyed in World WarII bombings. We found it strange and bizarre that at some point in the refectory’s history, someone decided a door should be put between the dining room and the kitchen (which is behind the wall where the Last Supper is painted). The door was cut into the wall in such a fashion that Jesus’ feet were cut off! Hey, if you need a door, you need a door!
The night of our tour we hung out in our hotel room and had a blast! An earth shattering lightning/thunder/hail storm passed over Milan for about two hours. The noise was deafening and all we could do was stand on our balcony and laugh out loud because it was so wild! The hail chunks were about one inch diameter drops of soft snow that pelted you pretty hard if you were brave enough to stick your hand out from the deck. Then, to our great satisfaction, we turned on the TV and our favorite movie, Moonstruck, was on in Italian! Matt and I walked to the corner to get a pizza to go and that was our perfect night in Milan.
The next day, the skies were blue, the sun was warm and the views from the top of the Milan Cathedral, the largest cathedral in Italy, were just stunning. We took loads of photos from roof, but the images we have from inside this cathedral will have to stay in our hearts and minds forever. There is no possible way to capture on film the architectural grandeur, the inspiring grace and the absolute magnificence of the interior of this cathedral. The moment we walked in the tears welled up inside me. It’s an experience I will never forget. It took 500 years to build the cathedral (but if it’s anything like Malibu, the first 327 years were spent just getting permits!). I can only imagine the generations of families that participated in the building of this cathedral and what their lives must have been like experiencing the progress.
Unfortunately, I had about as much desire to shop in Milan as I did to knock on someone’s door and ask them if I could do their dinner dishes! I’m really enjoying being a consumer by necessity only. We have plenty of time to find fun things along the way and I think I would get the most pleasure out of finding some incredible statue from Thailand, or Cambodia for our new home. But hey – there’s still time to get those Prada loafers in Rome in a few weeks!
See you in Paris!
I love being in Italy. The train to Milan from Bern passed through the Lake Como region, which was a beautiful sight, and we all smiled knowing we were back in Italy again. The cab ride from the train station to the hotel gave me no indication of what was in store for us in this incredible city. We got settled into our somewhat funky, but somewhat cool hotel (we liked it better after we realized our surroundings)! One of the first questions we usually ask when we arrive at a new hotel is “how do we arrange our internet service?” Our very sweet Italian bell boy, Lucca, says “ youa wanta internet? Yes, yes, it’sa free here . . . youa justa givea me youra credit card number, anda thena it’s all free.” And that’s the way it was in Milan – everything free – just after you give them your credit card number!
The first night we just walked around the Duomo and took in the people (the pickpocketers move through the crowds like sharks!), ate dinner at a sidewalk café and, of course, treated ourselves to gelato (it really does taste better in Italy). On Sunday we got really lucky and found four tickets on a tour which would take us to see the DaVinci’s Last Supper (the main reason we came to Milan). It’s not easy to get a ticket, even in the off season, and the best way is to join a tour, so we were really happy. After Madeline’s experience in her History class with Mr. Bream, she was determined to see this work of art. The tour took us to the Milan Castle, a classic Italian castle with gorgeous grounds, to the Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Gothic church which houses the refectory with the Last Supper, the La Scala Opera House, and back through the Duomo to the Piazza. We had an awesome tour guide because she was so passionate about the history and information she was sharing with us. The fifteen minutes we got to spend viewing the Last Supper was extraordinary. Madeline was really taken with being in the presence of this special art work. It’s pretty amazing that so much of the piece was preserved while the rest of the refectory was almost entirely destroyed in World WarII bombings. We found it strange and bizarre that at some point in the refectory’s history, someone decided a door should be put between the dining room and the kitchen (which is behind the wall where the Last Supper is painted). The door was cut into the wall in such a fashion that Jesus’ feet were cut off! Hey, if you need a door, you need a door!
The night of our tour we hung out in our hotel room and had a blast! An earth shattering lightning/thunder/hail storm passed over Milan for about two hours. The noise was deafening and all we could do was stand on our balcony and laugh out loud because it was so wild! The hail chunks were about one inch diameter drops of soft snow that pelted you pretty hard if you were brave enough to stick your hand out from the deck. Then, to our great satisfaction, we turned on the TV and our favorite movie, Moonstruck, was on in Italian! Matt and I walked to the corner to get a pizza to go and that was our perfect night in Milan.
The next day, the skies were blue, the sun was warm and the views from the top of the Milan Cathedral, the largest cathedral in Italy, were just stunning. We took loads of photos from roof, but the images we have from inside this cathedral will have to stay in our hearts and minds forever. There is no possible way to capture on film the architectural grandeur, the inspiring grace and the absolute magnificence of the interior of this cathedral. The moment we walked in the tears welled up inside me. It’s an experience I will never forget. It took 500 years to build the cathedral (but if it’s anything like Malibu, the first 327 years were spent just getting permits!). I can only imagine the generations of families that participated in the building of this cathedral and what their lives must have been like experiencing the progress.
Unfortunately, I had about as much desire to shop in Milan as I did to knock on someone’s door and ask them if I could do their dinner dishes! I’m really enjoying being a consumer by necessity only. We have plenty of time to find fun things along the way and I think I would get the most pleasure out of finding some incredible statue from Thailand, or Cambodia for our new home. But hey – there’s still time to get those Prada loafers in Rome in a few weeks!
See you in Paris!
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Switzerland
On March 13th, Madeline celebrated her 14th birthday by having breakfast in Zurich, lunch in Interlaken and dessert in Bern, Switzerland! Our scenic train ride through Switzerland was really beautiful. Zurich was just a quick overnight – then we took the train through Lucerne, Interlaken and on to Bern for three days. For some reason, I didn’t love Bern. I think my expectations were high and I was a little disappointed. The town itself is pretty, but is has a pulse about it that doesn’t seem to fit with its scenery. For a small town, it has a big energy – even in the off season. I’m ready and excited to move on to Milan.
In Bern we spent some time at the Kunstmuseum, which has a less than thrilling permanent collection, but the special exhibit by Adolf Wolfli was quite fascinating. After reading Wolfli’s bio, I am convinced he is one of those “truly mad” artists. His manic works of art are embedded with strings of text, musical notes and ornamental art. They are extremely detailed and interesting - doodle like. Matt didn’t care for them, but I was really taken with the style and the entire collection as a whole.
The “Bear Cave” of Bern – more like a “Bear Pit!” Two very bored looking bears lying in a round cement pit with rocks and some cut up wood – a little depressing. The famed clock in the center of town was nothing like the grand glockenspiel in Munich (and nobody seemed too interested in its performance). The Christ-catholic Church in Bern is one of those gorgeous gothic churches that I think are completely cool. I cannot pass a church without going inside. I’m just fascinated with the different interpretations of faith and worship throughout time and from place to place. My favorite thing was visiting Einstein’s apartment on Kramgasse. To walk up the same creaky wooden stairs that Einstein walked up while thinking about his Theory of Relativity was definitley a thrill. Einstein lived in Bern from 1902 to 1909. Here’s what he said about Bern…
“I shall mention only one of the scientific experiences which those happy
years in Bern brought: the Theory of Relativity.” Einstein
Jeez – all I did in Bern was eat and sleep!
See you in Milano!
On March 13th, Madeline celebrated her 14th birthday by having breakfast in Zurich, lunch in Interlaken and dessert in Bern, Switzerland! Our scenic train ride through Switzerland was really beautiful. Zurich was just a quick overnight – then we took the train through Lucerne, Interlaken and on to Bern for three days. For some reason, I didn’t love Bern. I think my expectations were high and I was a little disappointed. The town itself is pretty, but is has a pulse about it that doesn’t seem to fit with its scenery. For a small town, it has a big energy – even in the off season. I’m ready and excited to move on to Milan.
In Bern we spent some time at the Kunstmuseum, which has a less than thrilling permanent collection, but the special exhibit by Adolf Wolfli was quite fascinating. After reading Wolfli’s bio, I am convinced he is one of those “truly mad” artists. His manic works of art are embedded with strings of text, musical notes and ornamental art. They are extremely detailed and interesting - doodle like. Matt didn’t care for them, but I was really taken with the style and the entire collection as a whole.
The “Bear Cave” of Bern – more like a “Bear Pit!” Two very bored looking bears lying in a round cement pit with rocks and some cut up wood – a little depressing. The famed clock in the center of town was nothing like the grand glockenspiel in Munich (and nobody seemed too interested in its performance). The Christ-catholic Church in Bern is one of those gorgeous gothic churches that I think are completely cool. I cannot pass a church without going inside. I’m just fascinated with the different interpretations of faith and worship throughout time and from place to place. My favorite thing was visiting Einstein’s apartment on Kramgasse. To walk up the same creaky wooden stairs that Einstein walked up while thinking about his Theory of Relativity was definitley a thrill. Einstein lived in Bern from 1902 to 1909. Here’s what he said about Bern…
“I shall mention only one of the scientific experiences which those happy
years in Bern brought: the Theory of Relativity.” Einstein
Jeez – all I did in Bern was eat and sleep!
See you in Milano!
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Salzburg!
Wow! What a magical experience this has been. This city is gorgeous, clean, quiet, filled with charm and history and begging for people to walk all over it! We didn’t take public transportation once (except for the tour out to the Lakes Region) and we loved every minute. Today we walked to the top of Festungsburg Fort (right in the middle of the city) and the views were stunning. Salzburg is nestled in a valley surrounded by snow covered mountains and green expanses of land. It really does look like the Sound of Music! Yesterday we took a bus out to the Lakes Region (about 20 miles out of Salzburg) and we were really happy we did. We saw part of Austria we probably would not have seen, had we not done the tour. Fun fact – Red Bull was invented in this tiny town about 15 miles outside Salzburg and when you pass through you see the Red Bull campus, which is filled with ultra-hip, very modern glass buildings surrounded by water and it’s quite impressive!
We stayed in a very cool apartment and it really felt like home. The girls agreed that today was one of their favorite days so far and that they will return to Salzburg one day! (which is exactly why we’re doing this!) Off to Zurich for a quick stay, then to Bern, Switzerland!
Peace
Wow! What a magical experience this has been. This city is gorgeous, clean, quiet, filled with charm and history and begging for people to walk all over it! We didn’t take public transportation once (except for the tour out to the Lakes Region) and we loved every minute. Today we walked to the top of Festungsburg Fort (right in the middle of the city) and the views were stunning. Salzburg is nestled in a valley surrounded by snow covered mountains and green expanses of land. It really does look like the Sound of Music! Yesterday we took a bus out to the Lakes Region (about 20 miles out of Salzburg) and we were really happy we did. We saw part of Austria we probably would not have seen, had we not done the tour. Fun fact – Red Bull was invented in this tiny town about 15 miles outside Salzburg and when you pass through you see the Red Bull campus, which is filled with ultra-hip, very modern glass buildings surrounded by water and it’s quite impressive!
We stayed in a very cool apartment and it really felt like home. The girls agreed that today was one of their favorite days so far and that they will return to Salzburg one day! (which is exactly why we’re doing this!) Off to Zurich for a quick stay, then to Bern, Switzerland!
Peace
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Picasa Link to Travel Photos
I finally uploaded our travel photos to the web through Picasa, so if you're interested, there is a link on the upper right hand side of the blog site. Have fun!
Munich
We took the train from Munich to Fussen today to visit Neuschwanstein Castle, one of Europe’s grandest “fairy tale” castles. It was built from 1869 to 1886, but even then, it was only partially completed. The romantic, and eccentric, King Ludwig II had the castle built as a tribute to Richard Wagner, but Ludwig was declared insane by the state and was ordered to leave the castle. Before he departed he was found mysteriously floating in the lake below the castle – with his psychiatrist. The castle was only about 1/3 completed and within six weeks after Ludwig’s death, tours of the castle opened to the public. Hmmmm…. a bit fishy. Anyway, we had a great day and we really enjoyed the snowy, dramatic mountains the surround this majestic castle.
Yesterday we went back into Old Town to see the Glockenspiel chime and dance at 11:00am. It was so cute to watch all the little kids with their heads up, glued to the clock tower and smiling with delight. Alex and I got some great photos. We visited the Toy Museum, then walked around the Farmer’s Market and bought fresh bread, hummus and cheese and ate the most delicious bowls of soup ever. Meandering through the food markets of Europe is just a blast.
The train time we have together as we travel city to city has been really great family time. We, of course, bought Euro rail passes and we don’t have to fly again until we leave Athens for Turkey in mid-April. We usually play cards, catch up on schoolwork and read as a family. One of Alex’s literature novels that we chose was Elie Wiesel’s “Night.” We decided to read this novel as a family (I read aloud and everyone listens) because we wanted to experience the story as a family as we were traveling through Europe, and particularly, Auschwitz. Wiesel is a survivor of Auschwitz/Birkenau/Buna and Buchenwald and his story is heart wrenching, honest and inspiring. As we left the Auschwitz memorial the other day, there were six different building that honored Jewish people by country and we only had time to tour one of them. I thought it was poignant that we happened to choose the building where Elie Wiesel was honored. As we stepped out of the building and walked the street back to the parking lot, we were painfully aware that Elie had walked on those very streets before us. If you have not read this book, we highly recommend it. Wiesel was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1986 and the story he has to tell is painful, but should be shared.
See you in Salzburg!
The Toledo Family
We took the train from Munich to Fussen today to visit Neuschwanstein Castle, one of Europe’s grandest “fairy tale” castles. It was built from 1869 to 1886, but even then, it was only partially completed. The romantic, and eccentric, King Ludwig II had the castle built as a tribute to Richard Wagner, but Ludwig was declared insane by the state and was ordered to leave the castle. Before he departed he was found mysteriously floating in the lake below the castle – with his psychiatrist. The castle was only about 1/3 completed and within six weeks after Ludwig’s death, tours of the castle opened to the public. Hmmmm…. a bit fishy. Anyway, we had a great day and we really enjoyed the snowy, dramatic mountains the surround this majestic castle.
Yesterday we went back into Old Town to see the Glockenspiel chime and dance at 11:00am. It was so cute to watch all the little kids with their heads up, glued to the clock tower and smiling with delight. Alex and I got some great photos. We visited the Toy Museum, then walked around the Farmer’s Market and bought fresh bread, hummus and cheese and ate the most delicious bowls of soup ever. Meandering through the food markets of Europe is just a blast.
The train time we have together as we travel city to city has been really great family time. We, of course, bought Euro rail passes and we don’t have to fly again until we leave Athens for Turkey in mid-April. We usually play cards, catch up on schoolwork and read as a family. One of Alex’s literature novels that we chose was Elie Wiesel’s “Night.” We decided to read this novel as a family (I read aloud and everyone listens) because we wanted to experience the story as a family as we were traveling through Europe, and particularly, Auschwitz. Wiesel is a survivor of Auschwitz/Birkenau/Buna and Buchenwald and his story is heart wrenching, honest and inspiring. As we left the Auschwitz memorial the other day, there were six different building that honored Jewish people by country and we only had time to tour one of them. I thought it was poignant that we happened to choose the building where Elie Wiesel was honored. As we stepped out of the building and walked the street back to the parking lot, we were painfully aware that Elie had walked on those very streets before us. If you have not read this book, we highly recommend it. Wiesel was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1986 and the story he has to tell is painful, but should be shared.
See you in Salzburg!
The Toledo Family
Friday, March 7, 2008
New Photos
I forgot to post some photos from Berlin, and there were a few from Amsterdam as well, so now they are below. I couldn't put them in chronological order on the blog (some weird formatting thing), so I just posted them anyway. Oh well. If it's Tuesday, it must be Belgium!
Lisa
Lisa
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
Last Day in Prague
We woke this morning to sunny, blue skies and a light dusting of snow all over the city of Prague. The air was cold and crisp and the city looked like it was sprinkled in powder sugar overnight. By the time our tram stopped at Prague Castle, the skies were a menacing grey and the snowflakes began to fall. However, within the next hour, the clouds had passed and the skies were a perfect blue again! (see photos of St. Vitus Cathedral). The weather changed like this at least twice more in the following couple of hours. It was really a treat.
St. Vitus Cathedral is one of the most impressive cathedrals in all of Europe. The stained glass windows are exquisite and the sun was shining through long enough to reveal their full glory. The outside of the cathedral, with its gothic design and spires, is just as inspiring as the inside. We spent some time learning about the history of the castle and wandering around the different structures, and then headed back to Old Town Square. We wanted to visit the Bric-A-Brac antique shop that we had been in the day before to buy one of their Czech marionettes from the 1930’s. We instead bought Alex a Russian camera called a Lomo, which was made in the 1960’s. She is thrilled. We went online and discovered that the Russian Lomo is the one to have! Apparently professional photographers have developed ways to digitally recreate the effects of the Russian Lomo, but there’s nothing like the original. She can’t wait to buy some film and give it a try.
I would live in this wonderful city of Prague any day. Every time you turn a corner, there is a new visual treasure just waiting to be gawked at. I felt like such a tourist here, because I just couldn't put my camera away. I was really happy with my photos. I posted a few below, but it was taking about three minutes to upload each one, so I only posted a few. The rest of them will be saved for the three day slide show we’re going to give you when we get home.
See you in Munich!
Lisa, Matt, Alex and Madeline
We woke this morning to sunny, blue skies and a light dusting of snow all over the city of Prague. The air was cold and crisp and the city looked like it was sprinkled in powder sugar overnight. By the time our tram stopped at Prague Castle, the skies were a menacing grey and the snowflakes began to fall. However, within the next hour, the clouds had passed and the skies were a perfect blue again! (see photos of St. Vitus Cathedral). The weather changed like this at least twice more in the following couple of hours. It was really a treat.
St. Vitus Cathedral is one of the most impressive cathedrals in all of Europe. The stained glass windows are exquisite and the sun was shining through long enough to reveal their full glory. The outside of the cathedral, with its gothic design and spires, is just as inspiring as the inside. We spent some time learning about the history of the castle and wandering around the different structures, and then headed back to Old Town Square. We wanted to visit the Bric-A-Brac antique shop that we had been in the day before to buy one of their Czech marionettes from the 1930’s. We instead bought Alex a Russian camera called a Lomo, which was made in the 1960’s. She is thrilled. We went online and discovered that the Russian Lomo is the one to have! Apparently professional photographers have developed ways to digitally recreate the effects of the Russian Lomo, but there’s nothing like the original. She can’t wait to buy some film and give it a try.
I would live in this wonderful city of Prague any day. Every time you turn a corner, there is a new visual treasure just waiting to be gawked at. I felt like such a tourist here, because I just couldn't put my camera away. I was really happy with my photos. I posted a few below, but it was taking about three minutes to upload each one, so I only posted a few. The rest of them will be saved for the three day slide show we’re going to give you when we get home.
See you in Munich!
Lisa, Matt, Alex and Madeline
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