The moment we landed on the runway in Bangkok, I knew I’d love this city. Our first impression of this metropolis was that of the night skyline and the gorgeous, modern airport. There is definitely truth in the notion that the airport sets the tone for a person’s experience of a city. On our travels, we’ve so far landed in 21 different cities (we have 10 more to go) and I can honestly say… they haven’t all been winners. The airport in Delhi was atrocious (although under construction) and I have to admit, it set a mood that was hard to shake. Anyway, back to Bangkok. We drove to Old Bangkok where we stayed in a ten room guesthouse called the Old Bangkok Inn. The Inn was designed in that fabulous Thai style of teak wood and warm green colors and we loved it! The charming elderly couple that ran the Inn was so incredibly sweet – like all the Thai people we met.
Our first chore in Bangkok was to head to Raja’s Fashions and have some custom suits and shirts made for Matt. He had read about Raja in Men’s Vogue and we knew we had to go see Raja and his son Bobby. We jumped on a river boat, which dropped us in the shopping district, and then we took the Sky Train the rest of the way. We were so impressed with the cleanliness and ease of getting around the city. Raja’s Fashions was a great experience. Matt was very well taken care of by Bobby and his father and he ended up buying three suits, six custom shirts and four ties (all for the cost of one nice suit in the U.S.) We spent the rest of the day shopping at MBK and the Paragon Mall where Matt took Alex to a special Lomography photography exhibit that we just happened to catch on the opening day. The exhibit was definitely the hip place to be and Alex had a blast being part of the scene.
We spent one full day in Bangkok visiting the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Po where the golden, reclining Buddha rests, and Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). The Grand Palace was one massive jewel box! The entire palace is decorated with tiny pieces of gold, emerald green, cobalt blue, red and yellow tiles. It’s remarkable and we were really taken with the whole complex. The reclining Buddha was another extraordinary site; lying on his side with his head perched in his hand and completely covered in gold, he was very impressive. The Temple of the Dawn is an unusual temple made from broken pieces of porcelain and pottery. It’s more organic then some of the other temples, but also, very striking. Later in the evening, we went out for a completely authentic Thai dinner. They told us “no worry… no hot for you”, which basically meant we left with our tongues intact, but with no taste buds attached!
The only regret we had about Thailand was that we didn’t head far enough south for our three beach days. We decided to go to Hau Hin, in the Gulf of Thailand, and it was quite unimpressive. We ended up staying at a really nice Hilton, on the beach, but it was a little disappointing because we wanted to snorkel and see some blue water. We made the best of it and enjoyed bopping around the town, getting Thai foot massages and pedicures, and eating some good food. Next time, we’ll go to Ko Samui or Phuket.
We headed back to Bangkok for one more fitting at Raja’s, then off to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Bangkok was a great experience – the people are friendly and warm, the city is vibrant, clean and easy to be in, and the Thai culture is beautiful and invites you to come back for another visit.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Kathmandu, Nepal
Eighteen years ago I was planning a solo trip to Nepal, when a handsome, charming man came into my life and lets just say . . . I got a little side tracked. Matt had just returned from his six month travels around the world and he would leave me maps and brochures of Nepal on my desk at work , being the supportive new boyfriend that he was. I never took that trip, but I never doubted that, one day, we'd go to Nepal as a family. So, it was a long time coming, but so worth the wait, and so much fun to share it with Alex, Madeline and Matt.
We stationed ourselves in the Thamel area of Kathmandu, which is where all the trekkers and mountain bikers base themselves before taking off to the Himalayas. We spent eight days at the Kathmandu Guesthouse, a hip little spot with spacious, clean rooms (at $40 per night!) gardens, a small bar, restaurants and plenty of places to hang out and meet other world travelers. Out of all the places we've traveled so far, Kathmandu seemed to attract the most adventurous breed of travelers. We met a couple from Holland who have been riding their bikes around the world for three years. There was Ai from China, who decided to live at the Guesthouse for four months to learn English. A bright light in our Nepal trip was meeting Alex from Toronto, who was working in Bombay, but came to Kathmandu in hopes of renewing her India Visa. Alex is a smart,
beautiful, promising young woman, who celebrated her 23rd birthday at the Guesthouse. The girls were really taken with her - especially our Alex (and even better that they shared the same name). The more people we met, the more our six month travels started sounding like a three-day weekend to the Mystery Spot in Arizona! There are some really courageous people out there in the world and we just soaked in the stories and personalities while we were there.
The monsoon season is well underway in Nepal which meant that every day we had dramatic rain storms that lasted for at least an hour. The day we decided to visit the Monkey Temple, it dumped rain the moment we finished our long climb to the top and we were stranded up there for about an hour. On another day we took a four hour trek through the farm lands outside of Kathmandu and just as we sat down for lunch, the clouds broke loose. We had hiked to 7,200 feet and we had a front row seat of the parading thunder clouds. The forever views of the fertile green terraced mountains, which produce rice, corn and potatoes, completely disappeared in the downpour. The trek was definitely a highlight and left Matt and I with a desire to return to Nepal for a more extensive, long-term trek.
It was very interesting to have been in Nepal, especially Kathmandu, for such a historical moment in Nepal's history. The deposed Nepali king left his palace to begin his life as a civilian in the new republic on Wednesday, June 11th. The media were all over that place and we spoke with some French journalists, our neighbors at the Guesthouse, who shared some grim insight into the future of the Nepalese political situation. The country is in transition and hopefully will fare well through the journey.
We managed to venture out to Durbar Square, Patan (which is where the Temple of 1,000 Buddhas is), Bakhtapur and all over Thamel. The temples and architecture of the old sections of the city are so beautiful. The people are gentle and good-natured and we particulary had fun with the kids in the streets and around the temples. They like to engage you, often to sell you something, but sometimes they just want to laugh with you and be silly. I carried suckers around in my purse and had a lot of fun handing them out to willing takers. I'll never forget one little boy (about five) who took a sucker, smiled and said thanks, then disappeared. About 1/2 hour later, we were leaving in the taxi and the same boy was running along side us, holding his sucker in the air, waving and smiling at me.It's a mental picture I will never forget.
There is so much more to explore in Nepal, but now, it's under my skin, so I know I'll return. Alex was completely taken with Thamel, the glimpse of trekking, and the "culture" of the Guesthouse. She's itching to get back very soon!
I'm reading The Snow Leopard right now and it's a beautifully written account of one man's spiritual, physical and emotional journey as he treks through the Himalayas of Nepal. I don't think I'd ever be that ambitous, but the story is an inspiring one. I think there are many people who travel to Nepal with big dreams and aspirations and you can just feel it in the air when you're there. I feel very blessed to have experienced the wonder of Nepal.
Namaste
We stationed ourselves in the Thamel area of Kathmandu, which is where all the trekkers and mountain bikers base themselves before taking off to the Himalayas. We spent eight days at the Kathmandu Guesthouse, a hip little spot with spacious, clean rooms (at $40 per night!) gardens, a small bar, restaurants and plenty of places to hang out and meet other world travelers. Out of all the places we've traveled so far, Kathmandu seemed to attract the most adventurous breed of travelers. We met a couple from Holland who have been riding their bikes around the world for three years. There was Ai from China, who decided to live at the Guesthouse for four months to learn English. A bright light in our Nepal trip was meeting Alex from Toronto, who was working in Bombay, but came to Kathmandu in hopes of renewing her India Visa. Alex is a smart,
beautiful, promising young woman, who celebrated her 23rd birthday at the Guesthouse. The girls were really taken with her - especially our Alex (and even better that they shared the same name). The more people we met, the more our six month travels started sounding like a three-day weekend to the Mystery Spot in Arizona! There are some really courageous people out there in the world and we just soaked in the stories and personalities while we were there.
The monsoon season is well underway in Nepal which meant that every day we had dramatic rain storms that lasted for at least an hour. The day we decided to visit the Monkey Temple, it dumped rain the moment we finished our long climb to the top and we were stranded up there for about an hour. On another day we took a four hour trek through the farm lands outside of Kathmandu and just as we sat down for lunch, the clouds broke loose. We had hiked to 7,200 feet and we had a front row seat of the parading thunder clouds. The forever views of the fertile green terraced mountains, which produce rice, corn and potatoes, completely disappeared in the downpour. The trek was definitely a highlight and left Matt and I with a desire to return to Nepal for a more extensive, long-term trek.
It was very interesting to have been in Nepal, especially Kathmandu, for such a historical moment in Nepal's history. The deposed Nepali king left his palace to begin his life as a civilian in the new republic on Wednesday, June 11th. The media were all over that place and we spoke with some French journalists, our neighbors at the Guesthouse, who shared some grim insight into the future of the Nepalese political situation. The country is in transition and hopefully will fare well through the journey.
We managed to venture out to Durbar Square, Patan (which is where the Temple of 1,000 Buddhas is), Bakhtapur and all over Thamel. The temples and architecture of the old sections of the city are so beautiful. The people are gentle and good-natured and we particulary had fun with the kids in the streets and around the temples. They like to engage you, often to sell you something, but sometimes they just want to laugh with you and be silly. I carried suckers around in my purse and had a lot of fun handing them out to willing takers. I'll never forget one little boy (about five) who took a sucker, smiled and said thanks, then disappeared. About 1/2 hour later, we were leaving in the taxi and the same boy was running along side us, holding his sucker in the air, waving and smiling at me.It's a mental picture I will never forget.
There is so much more to explore in Nepal, but now, it's under my skin, so I know I'll return. Alex was completely taken with Thamel, the glimpse of trekking, and the "culture" of the Guesthouse. She's itching to get back very soon!
I'm reading The Snow Leopard right now and it's a beautifully written account of one man's spiritual, physical and emotional journey as he treks through the Himalayas of Nepal. I don't think I'd ever be that ambitous, but the story is an inspiring one. I think there are many people who travel to Nepal with big dreams and aspirations and you can just feel it in the air when you're there. I feel very blessed to have experienced the wonder of Nepal.
Namaste
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Delhi, India
When we planned to include India in this trip, we knew going in that we would not be able to give India the time it deserved to really get to know it. Instead of skipping the country altogether, we decided to spend four days in Delhi with the few expectations of seeing the Taj Mahal and visiting the markets. What we experienced in India, we could never have planned for, had we stayed there for a whole month.
The best decision we made was to forego the big hotels and stay at a very small guesthouse tucked away in a neighborhood in the heart of Delhi. The guesthouse, The Thikana, felt just like we were staying in someone’s home. We got in very early in the morning, after a long flight, so we all crashed right away. When we woke up in the late morning, we were greeted in the dining room by the lovely people who run the guesthouse, Sheetal, her mom, Geeta and her cousin Geetu. We sat for a long time and chatted with these amazing women and when we finally left to explore for the afternoon, we couldn’t wait to come “home” to have dinner with our new family! The next three days were more of the same – lots of laughs, sharing stories of travel, family and philosophies on life. The girls were so taken with the three women and declared Geetu their Indian Aunt.
We spent one entire day traveling to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and it was a sensory overload! Driving through that part of India is chaotic, depressing, beautiful, heart wrenching, humorous and filled with the constant honking of car horns. The Taj Mahal was gorgeous and everything you would expect it to be. We also spent a day with a driver who took us around Delhi to Humayun’s Tomb, Qutb-Minar, the Lotus Temple, few really fun markets and the post office! Qutb-Minar was one of my favorite ruins. It’s just gorgeous and serene and I love the Indian and Arab details in the architecture. The markets were fun and I found some really cool paper products and leather sandals that I really love. We went to the post office to mail a package and it was a complete trip to participate in the protocol India’s postal service. You hand your parcel over to a little man who takes it and wraps it in white muslin, then stitches the edges and ends together so the whole package is concealed like a present. Then he finishes off the seams with hot, red wax, seals it, sews in the mailing instructions, and glues another form onto the front of the package. It took about an hour to mail two letters and one package! We have some great stories from post office experiences all over the planet. I definitely have a greater appreciation for the USPS.
We ended our India stay with an incredible Indian dinner at Bukhara in the Mauyra Hotel. The food was absolutely some of the best we’ve ever had. The chicken dishes were incredible and the black lentils are a restaurant specialty. We ate with our hands, which made the meal that much better. We went home to rest, but the party didn’t stop there as Atul, Sheetal’s husband, was waiting for Matt so they could share a scotch and cigar. I’m not exactly sure what time Matt crawled into our room, but he didn’t have to drive, so it didn’t matter!
It was really difficult to say goodbye to our Delhi family and I don’t think they could possibly know how grateful we were to have been so welcomed and cared for in their special home by such a warm family. We vowed to meet again someday and the heart of India was revealed to us in a way we never expected. We will return to India – it draws you in and you want to feel more.
The best decision we made was to forego the big hotels and stay at a very small guesthouse tucked away in a neighborhood in the heart of Delhi. The guesthouse, The Thikana, felt just like we were staying in someone’s home. We got in very early in the morning, after a long flight, so we all crashed right away. When we woke up in the late morning, we were greeted in the dining room by the lovely people who run the guesthouse, Sheetal, her mom, Geeta and her cousin Geetu. We sat for a long time and chatted with these amazing women and when we finally left to explore for the afternoon, we couldn’t wait to come “home” to have dinner with our new family! The next three days were more of the same – lots of laughs, sharing stories of travel, family and philosophies on life. The girls were so taken with the three women and declared Geetu their Indian Aunt.
We spent one entire day traveling to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and it was a sensory overload! Driving through that part of India is chaotic, depressing, beautiful, heart wrenching, humorous and filled with the constant honking of car horns. The Taj Mahal was gorgeous and everything you would expect it to be. We also spent a day with a driver who took us around Delhi to Humayun’s Tomb, Qutb-Minar, the Lotus Temple, few really fun markets and the post office! Qutb-Minar was one of my favorite ruins. It’s just gorgeous and serene and I love the Indian and Arab details in the architecture. The markets were fun and I found some really cool paper products and leather sandals that I really love. We went to the post office to mail a package and it was a complete trip to participate in the protocol India’s postal service. You hand your parcel over to a little man who takes it and wraps it in white muslin, then stitches the edges and ends together so the whole package is concealed like a present. Then he finishes off the seams with hot, red wax, seals it, sews in the mailing instructions, and glues another form onto the front of the package. It took about an hour to mail two letters and one package! We have some great stories from post office experiences all over the planet. I definitely have a greater appreciation for the USPS.
We ended our India stay with an incredible Indian dinner at Bukhara in the Mauyra Hotel. The food was absolutely some of the best we’ve ever had. The chicken dishes were incredible and the black lentils are a restaurant specialty. We ate with our hands, which made the meal that much better. We went home to rest, but the party didn’t stop there as Atul, Sheetal’s husband, was waiting for Matt so they could share a scotch and cigar. I’m not exactly sure what time Matt crawled into our room, but he didn’t have to drive, so it didn’t matter!
It was really difficult to say goodbye to our Delhi family and I don’t think they could possibly know how grateful we were to have been so welcomed and cared for in their special home by such a warm family. We vowed to meet again someday and the heart of India was revealed to us in a way we never expected. We will return to India – it draws you in and you want to feel more.
Dubai
Is it shallow of me to say that my favorite thing about Dubai was the carmel corn we ate at the giant Cineplex in the Emirates Mall while watching Indiana Jones? O.K., then how about this one; we all adored the experience of flying business class from Nairobi to Dubai and Dubai to Delhi on Emirates Airlines. Oh wait, no that’s no good. O.K., here’s one – we were so happy to have a nice condo with a washing machine so we could do all of our wash (I mean every last piece!). Well, you get the drift - there’s not much to love about Dubai except the modern conveniences of Western culture! It is a Middle Eastern phenomenon and a bit of an environmental disaster, but you have to love the entrepreneurial spirit there. The Emirates are all going berserk with development and there’s so much more to come. It was interesting to listen to the conversations of the young people (mostly English and Australian) who have come there to make their fortunes. From the sounds of it, there is plenty of fortune to go around. It’s a feeding frenzy!
We did have fun one night when we drove out to the desert in a four-wheeler and tore up the sand dunes for a few hours. The girls were screaming with laughter as we rolled over the tops of the sand dunes and felt like the whole car would roll over sliding down the side of the dune! It was exhilarating (but not environmentally p.c.!)Then, we all drove to a little desert oasis and had a fabulous Middle Eastern dinner and watched some belly dancing. They had sand-boarding, henna painting, camel riding and various other activities and it was really fun. We wanted to see Dubai for ourselves and I’m really glad we did. The people are absolutely beautiful, especially those in their national dress. Dubai has an amazing skyline, but sadly, you can so little of it through the sand clouds and pollution. It’s a wildly out-of-control place and now, we can say we’ve been there!
We did have fun one night when we drove out to the desert in a four-wheeler and tore up the sand dunes for a few hours. The girls were screaming with laughter as we rolled over the tops of the sand dunes and felt like the whole car would roll over sliding down the side of the dune! It was exhilarating (but not environmentally p.c.!)Then, we all drove to a little desert oasis and had a fabulous Middle Eastern dinner and watched some belly dancing. They had sand-boarding, henna painting, camel riding and various other activities and it was really fun. We wanted to see Dubai for ourselves and I’m really glad we did. The people are absolutely beautiful, especially those in their national dress. Dubai has an amazing skyline, but sadly, you can so little of it through the sand clouds and pollution. It’s a wildly out-of-control place and now, we can say we’ve been there!
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
May 25th, 2008 - Our 17th Wedding Anniversary
Masai Village, Ngorongoro Crater
Tanzania
This morning we woke up in the Serena Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater; a stunning property which sits up on the crater’s rim at 7,000 feet. Each room has a gorgeous view of the entire basin and we were up early to watch the sunrise and then the fog as it slowly rolled in over the upper edges of the perimeter of the crater. It was a beautiful way to begin our 17th anniversary.
After breakfast, we ventured out for a six hour safari of Ngorongoro Crater. In an unplanned turn of events, on the way down the crater, we decided to visit a local Masai Village where we were warmly welcomed by the men of the village, as they danced and sang for us. As we entered the village, we were immediately greeted by the women and children as they took our hands, smiled and laughed, placed their beaded collars over our heads, and decorated us with their jewelry. Matt then asked the head of the village if it might be possible to receive a Masai wedding blessing, as it was our 17th anniversary. After some more singing and dancing, we were ushered into the cow corral, where Matt and I were invited to sit down on two plastic buckets, as the entire village surrounded us. The ladies decorated me the best they could. They laughed as they took turns trying their beaded collars on me because my head is full of hair, and much larger then theirs! After four or five tries, finally they were satisfied to find one that fit. The men gave Matt a beaded leadership stick and a cow-tail switch, which is reserved for the village elders as a sign of respect (and used to swat flies!) The village elder, a beautiful man who might have been 60 or might have been 100, appeared before us to give us our blessing. He held a small gourd filled with cow’s milk and honey, and stuffed at the top with a type of weedy plant. As he gave us his blessing, he walked around us and sprinkled us with the honey milk. When that was done, he took the weedy plant and stuffed a bunch of it in Matt’s shirt and some in my jacket, close to our hearts. The blessing was over and Matt and I kissed and all the Masai ladies giggled. Our ceremony concluded with the Masai art of fire making, which is completely astonishing. The village elder retired to his hut and the ladies disappeared to wrangle the cows into the corral for the morning milking. We were then led to the kindergarten where about fifteen adorable Masai children were studying their English alphabet, numbers to 100, and some simple words. They were very serious as they studied, but they all smiled and laughed when we got silly with them. We were invited inside one of the Masai huts, which are made from sticks, grass, and cow dung. The huts are divided into four sections: the calf room (where six calves stay at night when it’s cold), the bed for the male, the bed for the females and children, and the center of the hut, which is for a small fire, cooking, and eating. All of this is contained within about 100 square feet. The hut was warm and cozy and incredibly efficient.
The Masai number about 500,000 in Kenya and Tanzania. They are some of the kindest, most gentle spirits we have ever met. The girls were so taken with their smiles and hospitality and meeting the Masai was one of their favorite experiences from Africa. They happily participated in our celebration and they were so supportive and sweet.
Matt and I have shared some really special anniversaries with great food, beautiful gifts, travel and celebrations with the girls, but nothing will ever compare to the beautiful day we spent at the Masai village in Tanzania. The blessing we received from these honest, kind people meant so much to us and we are forever grateful for their spirit and generosity.
Tanzania
This morning we woke up in the Serena Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater; a stunning property which sits up on the crater’s rim at 7,000 feet. Each room has a gorgeous view of the entire basin and we were up early to watch the sunrise and then the fog as it slowly rolled in over the upper edges of the perimeter of the crater. It was a beautiful way to begin our 17th anniversary.
After breakfast, we ventured out for a six hour safari of Ngorongoro Crater. In an unplanned turn of events, on the way down the crater, we decided to visit a local Masai Village where we were warmly welcomed by the men of the village, as they danced and sang for us. As we entered the village, we were immediately greeted by the women and children as they took our hands, smiled and laughed, placed their beaded collars over our heads, and decorated us with their jewelry. Matt then asked the head of the village if it might be possible to receive a Masai wedding blessing, as it was our 17th anniversary. After some more singing and dancing, we were ushered into the cow corral, where Matt and I were invited to sit down on two plastic buckets, as the entire village surrounded us. The ladies decorated me the best they could. They laughed as they took turns trying their beaded collars on me because my head is full of hair, and much larger then theirs! After four or five tries, finally they were satisfied to find one that fit. The men gave Matt a beaded leadership stick and a cow-tail switch, which is reserved for the village elders as a sign of respect (and used to swat flies!) The village elder, a beautiful man who might have been 60 or might have been 100, appeared before us to give us our blessing. He held a small gourd filled with cow’s milk and honey, and stuffed at the top with a type of weedy plant. As he gave us his blessing, he walked around us and sprinkled us with the honey milk. When that was done, he took the weedy plant and stuffed a bunch of it in Matt’s shirt and some in my jacket, close to our hearts. The blessing was over and Matt and I kissed and all the Masai ladies giggled. Our ceremony concluded with the Masai art of fire making, which is completely astonishing. The village elder retired to his hut and the ladies disappeared to wrangle the cows into the corral for the morning milking. We were then led to the kindergarten where about fifteen adorable Masai children were studying their English alphabet, numbers to 100, and some simple words. They were very serious as they studied, but they all smiled and laughed when we got silly with them. We were invited inside one of the Masai huts, which are made from sticks, grass, and cow dung. The huts are divided into four sections: the calf room (where six calves stay at night when it’s cold), the bed for the male, the bed for the females and children, and the center of the hut, which is for a small fire, cooking, and eating. All of this is contained within about 100 square feet. The hut was warm and cozy and incredibly efficient.
The Masai number about 500,000 in Kenya and Tanzania. They are some of the kindest, most gentle spirits we have ever met. The girls were so taken with their smiles and hospitality and meeting the Masai was one of their favorite experiences from Africa. They happily participated in our celebration and they were so supportive and sweet.
Matt and I have shared some really special anniversaries with great food, beautiful gifts, travel and celebrations with the girls, but nothing will ever compare to the beautiful day we spent at the Masai village in Tanzania. The blessing we received from these honest, kind people meant so much to us and we are forever grateful for their spirit and generosity.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Mombasa
We left the Masai Mara and headed back to Nairobi for one night before flying to Mombasa for five days at the beach. Our plan all along was to use this time to rest, finish up school work and enjoy the Indian Ocean. We stayed at another Serena property and it was quiet and lovely and exactly what we needed for the week. The tropical downpours of rain were thrilling and just the motivation we needed to get our work done. We played with the monkeys that dominate the property, walked on the white sandy beaches, talked to the African parrot in the lobby, played pool, worked out in the gym and took care of business. The week was relaxing and beautiful, but we were all very excited to get back on the little Twin Otter plane and fly to Tanzania for the rest of our safari adventure!
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Photo update
Uploading to Picasa is slow in Mombasa (hey, that rhymes), so I'll have to upload from Dubai in about 10 days.
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